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The Cookie Cliff
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Unsorted Routes:

Cookie Monster 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Price 1979 FFA (1st pitch) Kurt Smith, Scott Cosgrove 1987 (on gear)
Page Views: 7,016
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Doing it on gear is the way to go and it isnt runo...

Description 

Once a sketchy 5.13 gear-tinkering single-pitch pumpfest, now a fully bolted 2 pitch sport route...Like so many older routes (Heinous Cling at Smith Rock comes to mind) that were mixed gear and bolts, the Cookie Monster is now a clip up.

Rarely done, the continuous and steep "second" (5.13) pitch of black rock, golden knobs and tiny, sharp crimps looms above the overhanging crescent-like seam of the fun and very chalked first pitch.

Getting to the popular 5.12- "first" pitch anchor is an increasingly difficult finger-lieback and stemming sequence with one BIG move and culminating with a crux section which can be pulled off in about 3 different ways.


Protection 

SM/MED nuts and thin finger sized cams can be used to supplement the bolts on the "first" pitch...But, if you are strong enough to place anything, then you may as well skip all the bolts while you're at it.



Photos of Cookie Monster Slideshow Add Photo
Eric going for the all-gear onsight. So close...
Eric going for the all-gear onsight. So close...
Cookie Monster in January
Cookie Monster in January
James Barnett on Cookie Monster
James Barnett on Cookie Monster
the jug!
the jug!
Cookie Monster
Cookie Monster
Comments on Cookie Monster Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 12, 2007

I thought P2 was always bolt protected. Also, isn't "Cookie Monster" the name of the 12a pitch, and "Cookie Cutter" the name of the second, 13b pitch? Anyway, the 2nd pitch is pretty solid for the grade. Very sharp and thin, with some reachy moves near the top.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 16, 2007

Basically enduro liebacking with decent edges for feet and a short crux sequence where the crack arches and thins. Can't say that I've seen anyone supplement the bolts with gear other than placing one stopper on the way to the first bolt.

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Feb 11, 2008

Mono, I thought that the 2nd pitch was called Cookie Cutter as well. Lotsa glue but great fun, I also sorta thought Eddie Berry did the 2nd pitch and Kurt the 1st. Anyways, soopergood route but it killed my fingertips.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 18, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I belive that Hank and Mono are correct on the names and the bolting situation, the first pitch was lead all on gear and called 5.12c and was later bolted by or with the permission of the first ascentionist.

By BenL
Jan 27, 2009

with all the bolts, I think the 1. pitch is on the really soft side of the grade. If this lieback is 12a, then Moratorium too felt like 12a for me, I guess 11c is more appropriate...
excellent sportclimb though!

By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Jun 17, 2009

doing P.1 on gear is way to go. Dose anyone know if P.2 has gone on gear? That stuff is hard and deperate. I'd assume it would be given an X rating.

By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 6, 2010

Pitch one is entry level 12a. with or without bolts. Its mostly 5.10 on great holds.

"C" is for Cookie. That's good enough for me! - Cookie Monster.

By Josh Janes
Jun 11, 2010

I don't think P2 would deserve the X... a couple great gear placements exist, and even if they didn't, there's a heck of a lot of air below you. I found the moves from the last bolt to the anchor impossible.

By Steven Roth
Mar 12, 2013

Got on the second pitch this past weekend. I had finally worked out the tough boulder problem between the last bolt and the anchors. It is by far the hardest part of the route (adding maybe a +-V7 boulder prob), but a local said the line breaks out right to the crack to the anchors. Anyone know anything about this?