Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barrel of Monkeys 
Bloke On The Side 
Bridget the Midget 
Byway 
Chick on the Side 
Conversions 
Court Jester 
Crazy Stairs 
Curving Dihedral 
Dandi-Line 
Dead Letter Department 
Drug Abuse 
Erickson's Finish 
False Prophet 
Fever, The 
Going Postal 
Good Ship Venus 
Handcracker Direct 
Hanging Chad 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
Human Factor, The 
Hyperspace Roundup 
Ignominity 
Ignore Me 
Iron Horse 
Knife, The 
Lightning Bolt Crack 
Lost in the Netherlands 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up 
Mail Ridge, The 
Mesca-Line 
Muscle and Hate 
Pony Express 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 
Practice Climb 101 
Practice Wall 
Prison Sex 
Pygmy Pony 
Quick Silver 
Quicksand 
Quiet Desperation 
Reckoning 
Rhombohedral 
Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Conversions 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Steve Levin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,119
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 7, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
2 hooks & a 'Birdbeak', all duct taped.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a new route that climbs the smooth black and green face forming the left wall of the first pitch of The Side Wall (just left of Unbroken Chain). It can easily be toproped from the good double-bolt anchor atop the first pitch of The Side Wall. It was established headpoint style and the first two pieces were pre-rigged on top-rope.

The lower face is the crux, mentally and physically. A crimpy stand-up moves caps the sequence and deposits you on a ledge. Lean right and load up the flake on Unbroken Chain, then climb the arete via its less steep left side to the anchors on The Side Wall.

The Sidewall alcove is a nice warm hang on winter days, especially if the sun is out.


Protection 

Two crashpads, RPs and stoppers, small TCUs and a skyhook.



Comments on Conversions Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve dieckhoff
Apr 2, 2004

Rolo repeated this today in true "Headpoint" style, but w/o crashpads. See attached photos of duct-taped hooks & Birdbeak and try to imagine the horrified excitement I felt as the belayer. Whew.

By Brady Robinson
Dec 11, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b X

Fun toprope, no interest in leading this thing however.

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Sep 10, 2013

There was a time in CT when Ken Nichols thought this form of protection was an acceptable and should be the standard instead of using bolts.... I really don't see the point to this; it's what, a 1% chance of holding if you actually whipped on them?

By Pinklebear
Sep 10, 2013

Some history on this lead with no "point": in Eldo, to bolt a new route, you need approval from a fixed hardware review committee, and it's certain this route never would have passed it would have been a "two-bolt piece of shit," as Rolo Garibotti, who did the second ascent, pointed out ... if it even passed. And neither Steve nor I felt like submitting an app for a two-bolt POS.

So, Conversions is perfectly fine as a toprope, or if you want the mental challenge, you can lead it with the hooks. On my first attempt to lead the route, I chickened out at the highstep crux high above the hooks and so started downclimbing. I botched some moves down low, below the hooks, and pitched. The hooks actually held when I was below them, and I was grateful for the crashpad below as well.

Anyway, this isn't really an example of a contrived hook-protected lead eating up prime real estate, but more like, an interesting, easily toproped problem that can also be done as a headpoint for Eldo aficionados. Whether there's a point to this or not is debatable, I'm sure. Steve and I certainly had fun putting it up and playing with the UK Hard Grit-style.