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 ADVANCED
Lower Hawksbill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conventional Warfare 
Diving Board, The 
Encore 
Fat Lady, The 
Ice Cream Direct 
Jeep's Chimney 
King of Kings 
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) 
Phantom of the Opera 
Trundle From Down Under 
Whip-or-will 

Conventional Warfare 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess, Sam Stevenson - 1989 FFA: Bruce Burgess - 1991
Page Views: 870
Submitted By: Ben Sachs on Jun 13, 2010
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Christian getting it done on P2, Conventional Warf...
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  • Description 

    Very cool overhung dihedral. Both technical and powerful. Small crimps, but fancy footwork keeps you from pulling too hard on them. This route used to be 12d, but holds have broken and I think consensus is 13a now. Rarely done 2nd pitch climbs short dihedral to the right on gear at 11b.


    Location 

    Right end of Lower HB


    Protection 

    5 bolts. This route was recently rebolted (not by me) with stainless hardware. No more cruxing over rusty self-drives from the 80's. A bolted anchor was also added for the 1st pitch. A fixed nut (#8 BD) used to protect the finish but is not needed with the new anchor and has been removed. Bring one if you are sketched by the 3 moves of 5.6 that it protects (still not a ground fall).



    Comments on Conventional Warfare Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ben Sachs
    Oct 26, 2011

    I hear the bolted anchor got removed. Now instead of maybe 4 ascents per year this will see 0 as it has for the previous decade. I guess this is what the FA party wants. Glad I got to send before it happened.

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Jun 22, 2012

    A new and very steep variation second pitch/link-up has been established through the steep wall directly above the first pitch corner. It's listed as King Of Kings roof finish and worth doing if you like roofy climbing.

    By Abel Jones
    From: Hickory, NC
    Aug 17, 2012

    Keep stemming higher! The anchors were gone but it was easy to down climb back to the top bolt and lower on someone's leaver biner. There is a fixed nut now but it is a drag to lower off of. It would be cooler to continue and link it in to the second pitch.