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Crystal Lake Crag
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Conveniently Sexy 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Keith Leaman, Dale Leaman, Gary Cifra, 1960's
Season: All
Page Views: 1,222
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Oct 3, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Taco on lead. Photo by Amanda C.


A fun fingers-hand crack that goes at around 5.7ish. One can also lieback some sections for a different feel. Climb up to the Oak tree ledge and use the tree as the anchor. Make sure your anchor takes the tree's health as well as rope-on-edge awareness into consideration.


This route is on the north side of the crag near the top. It is easily identifiable by being a clean crack running up to the right of a beautiful clean blank face.


-I use a #0.75, #1, and #2 C4 to protect the route. Bring a single rack of cams from fingers to hands.
-Cordelette or webbing for anchor + lockers

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Amanda C on route
BETA PHOTO: Amanda C on route
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By jenflory
Nov 29, 2011

Taco's guide is spot on, but the area is really chossy. One of the few places I'd give the helmet to the belayer if I only had one.

By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 2, 2011

Had one... a helmet or belayer?

By TacoDelRio
From: The Ditch and the hood
Apr 19, 2012

Like Jen said, bring a helmet! This is the San Gabes. :-) Lotta rocks ready to pounce!

By Jeff Edge
Mar 13, 2013

Definitely a good route, belay is pretty awkward in the snow. Bring some long webbing for the tree anchor or be prepared to have rocks raining down if toproping.

By TacoDelRio
From: The Ditch and the hood
Jun 21, 2013

I cleaned a LOT of loose rock the other day from above the route as well as on it.

I have also started to make a sort of trail to and from this area of the crags. Real unstable, but now there's at least a stable place to sit, organize gear, and cook with a stove.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 20, 2013

Good for you, Taco. Thanks for the time and effort. That slope and the approach are indeed unstable. Keep up the great work.