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 ADVANCED
Black Wave Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Woman Scorned S 
Black Wave S 
Controlled Burn S 
Fear Factor S 
Forest Management S 
Slab Management S 
Smoked Crackers T 

Controlled Burn 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Head Crew?
Page Views: 572
Submitted By: Kat A on May 26, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Controlled Burn is the line on the far left of the...

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Description 

Controlled Burn is the first bolted line just right of the wide crack system on Black Wave Wall. The first crux comes shortly off the ground. Midway up the route, there are two options for continuing to the anchors: 1) Angle left towards the crack system, with 3 bolts, this is listed as Malt (10.a) in Anderson's guide. I didn't take this line, as it looked too runout for my tastes without any supplemental gear, which I wasn't carrying; or 2) Veer right to join the second half of A Woman Scorned (10c upper section). We followed this line - the crux of this upper section involves delicate footwork and balancey moves. Overall a nice route on good granite. The bolting was well done - spaced further out on the easier sections, well protected on the crux sections.

Location 

First bolted line just right of the wide crack system on Black Wave Wall. Scramble 10-15 feet up to a ledge to belay. The start is next to a 3' tall flake leaning against the wall; to start the route, we stepped on this "potato chip flake" as my friend referred it it, but very gently. Descend by rappelling from the 2 bolt anchors.

Protection 

12-14 draws, plus gear for the 2 bolt anchor that is shared with the adjacent A Woman Scorned route. Supplemental gear recommended if angling left for the Malt variation.


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