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The Shield
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Control Freak S 
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Gypsy S 
Megalomania S 
Tattoo S 

Control Freak 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Season: All year
Page Views: 1,043
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 15, 2008

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Stein just after the starting bulge on Control Fre...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


Sequential climbing leads over the initial bulge. After a good rest at the 5th bolt work through bad holds and a tricky crux. A quick shake leads to a powerful deadpoint crux. A few remaining thin moves lead to a no hands rest. A few more bolts of 11+ climbing lead to the anchor.


Located just left of Megalomania. Two bolt lines right of Gypsy.


9 bolts to open shuts.

Photos of Control Freak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stein gets ready for the first crux on Control Fre...
Stein gets ready for the first crux on Control Fre...

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By Nick Tunnicliffe
From: Costa Mesa
Nov 9, 2015
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Just repeated this climb for the first time today. I remember thinking it was soft at the time of sending, but not I can confidently say I think it is more in line with 12c/d. Have definitely done 12c's that felt harder.

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