Contrivance  V4

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Type:  Boulder, 10 feet Consensus:  V3-4 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Jay Samuelson on Nov 2, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: a wee bit contrived?

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Description 

There's two ways to do this problem; using the small boulder on the left for feet, or not. If you don't, it's probably V4+ or V5, if you do use it it's probably V2/V3ish. Start on the left side of the boulder, on the sloping rail and the pocket/hand jam/undercling feature, however you wish to use it. Tricky to keep the feet off the left side of the deihidral, but makes it much more interesting. Figure out a sequence to move along the rail to the right. Once you get to the middle/right side of the boulder, go straight up, don't finish the rail to the inside corner.

The hardest part of the climb is resisting the temptation to use the feet on the left, and figuring out how to climb around all the features that are 'off' around you. Obviously you can choose to climb it however you wish, but deciding to mark those features off made it much more difficult, and was fun to figure out how to make the moves.

Location 

Same area as Squirming Coil, basically the first 'cave' you come to on your left side heading up the trail. It's the north-facing boulder, making the back of the 'cave'.

Protection 

A pad will do.