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Squirming Coil Area
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Contrivance 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,157
Submitted By: Jay Samuelson on Nov 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: a wee bit contrived?

Description 

There's two ways to do this problem; using the small boulder on the left for feet, or not. If you don't, it's probably V4+ or V5, if you do use it it's probably V2/V3ish. Start on the left side of the boulder, on the sloping rail and the pocket/hand jam/undercling feature, however you wish to use it. Tricky to keep the feet off the left side of the deihidral, but makes it much more interesting. Figure out a sequence to move along the rail to the right. Once you get to the middle/right side of the boulder, go straight up, don't finish the rail to the inside corner.

The hardest part of the climb is resisting the temptation to use the feet on the left, and figuring out how to climb around all the features that are 'off' around you. Obviously you can choose to climb it however you wish, but deciding to mark those features off made it much more difficult, and was fun to figure out how to make the moves.

Location 

This is in the same area as Squirming Coil, basically the first 'cave' you come to on your left side heading up the trail. It's the north-facing boulder, making the back of the 'cave'.

Protection 

A pad will do.


Photos of Contrivance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up the rail to the pockets.
Moving up the rail to the pockets.

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By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 2, 2007

I would probably give this 3 stars if it wasn't dependent on 'avoiding' features. But overall I found the moves fun, tricky to figure out, and challenging. Technical and hard to keep the feet on. Good problem, IMHO.
By Jacob ward
From: Lakewood, Colorado
Feb 10, 2011

Really solid warm up. It's pretty easy to top out on, too. Landing is pretty good compared to other spots in the dark side, but it's possible to fall down the hill.

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