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Talking Headwall
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Continuance 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,006
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
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Description 

Crux is moving past the first bolt. May be a good warm-up climb. Due to the quality of this route it doesn't see much traffic.

If you want to do a 5.7 look to your right to Fat Bastard. Great roof problem on jugs.


Location 

Look for three colored bolts to the right of the big roof. First bolt will be on a blank face.


Protection 

According to recent photos the first bolt is no longer there leaving 2 bolts and ring anchors.



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By Piotr
From: Alexandria, VA
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Great route for anyone new to sport climbing.

By MealyM
From: Frankfurt
Sep 22, 2012

My first outdoor sport lead. Nice quick warmup for Fat Bastard.

By Dan Mathews
Oct 26, 2012

The first bolt is in a huge detached block. I wouldn't/didn't clip it. I used some tcu's below and above it.

By Zack V
May 15, 2013

Huge block of rock where the first bolt is broke off today and is now laying on the bottom of the route. No one was hurt but it was a Very close call. Be mindful of what you pull and step on.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 15, 2014

whats the route to the right of (dis)continuance. that starts easy then gets steeper and a bit harder at the top?

By Wannabe
Mar 22, 2014

I believe you're asking about Fat Bastard:
mountainproject.com/v/fat-bastard/106152649
It has those last two bolts that are easily Z-clipped if you're not careful and a very awkward anchor at the top once you clear the roof.