Named in keeping with the theme of the cliff but also for its availability as a warm-up, this is probably the best easy route on the cliff. It takes a light rack of cams and nuts and climbs better than it looks.
Start up the poorly protected but easy corner (5.5) to reach the first good gear and good ledges, continuing in the corner for quite some time. Good holds abound and appear just as needed. The grade goes up as you get further up, with a 5.9 crux just as you finish the corner and step up and right into the first of two diagonal cracks. Protect the first one and continue up to the second one, which will diagonal out and right at a 45 degrees with good jams for 4 meters to pop up on to the belay ledge at a fixed anchor as for Primal Scream.
Just left of Primal Scream, this corner and crack system climbs up a shrinking, right-facing corner for 20 meters, then goes up and right though 2 successive (passing through the lower to the upper, as the crux) cracks to diagonal right to the anchors as for Primal Scream. The anchor is presently a good fixed hex and a bolt, with cord and a rapid link, set for the 100' rap.
Mixed set of cams from .75" to 3" and a set of nuts plus some slings (a few longer ones).
Jason Hass on the F.A. lead of Continental Breakfa...
Near the bottom.
The crux section with Mark at the belay.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
We replaced the cord on the rap anchor on 6/21/2012.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2012
Glad someone is out getting on these things- especially you Jay- great to see you made it back into the game!