|Redgarden - Tower One
A sweet line and a natural final pitch after Vertigo, Doub-Griffith, Super Slab, etc.... Or upon rapping CC, do this and rap it again.
From the base of Chockstone Chimney, step right and climb R facing corner to where you can traverse R. across face (same as Italian Arete, I believe). From the arete, climb straight up over roof, passing obvious horn (I slung it as this feels a bit committing). Then follow crack system to the top, passing crux thin section on overhanging, neon lichen face (looks like it could be a closed seam from the ground, it's not!), cool moves!. Move left up high and pull the upper roof at a hand crack. Belay on large ledge to hear your 2nd better or wander to the top on easy but blocky rock.
This line is reasonably protected (YMMV, use your best judgment) and super fun!
NOTE: This route may have suspect rock in places, so climb accordingly. I cleaned most of the portable handholds off but....
The crux section, however, seemed bomber.
Start at the base of Body Tremors and Chockstone Chimney. Top out where Italian Arete does and walk back down to do Chockstone Chimney rap.
A double set of cams through #3 Camalot and a set of nuts is more than enough. Doubles in #3 and #2 sizes were way nice. A green Alien slotted just when you want it. A bunch of shoulder slings and a couple doubles.
|By Scott Bennett|
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13
Wow, I tried this thing today, I thought it was hard and a bit scary. Maybe my head wasn't in the right place, but the gear seemed pretty bad low in the crack. Near the middle of the crack a couple decent placements appear, but getting everything right on an onsight would be very tough.
Fun route though, and really easy to toprope from the chockstone chimney rap anchors.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 28, 2010
A few years back I got on this and dropped some rocks off.. ones that I had been holding onto at the crux! I think it is pretty heads-up climbing and gear - no true rests or stances for gear in the harder sections of climbing, so you have to fight it out. Not a gimmie!