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Constipation Prize 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 951
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Dan climbing Constipation Prize

Description 

Just left of Mogli Grape (5.6), follow bolts up a low-angle start past a tree to gain a steep cracked face higher up. A stiff (in my humble opinion) crux uses cracks and crimps to gain the anchor.

Worth doing but not classic by any means.

Location 

As you walk in to the gully in front of you on the right side of the gully's chimney feature you will see a line of bolts roughly following a sharp arete. That's the one.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchor.


Photos of Constipation Prize Slideshow Add Photo
Getting to the finish.. like a frog
Getting to the finish.. like a frog
The finished route
BETA PHOTO: The finished route

Comments on Constipation Prize Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Has anyone done just the cracks to the right of this? the cracks shape a sort of diamond? looks fairly easy...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 7, 2009

Was on this route today... both anchors are a bit loose the right one is sketchy in my opinion...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

thats good to know, i was planning on getting on it soon but i may wait a little while now..
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 9, 2009

Matt, drag a wrench up with you and crank it tighter :\
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 9, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good call if i get out there i will have to do that...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 9, 2009

Might be a harder fix than that.... im not too worried about a nut that needs tightening. the right hand bolt is a little loose in the rock... th eleft seemed ok but might use a tightening
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is weird. If you follow the bolt line directly up the arete it is much harder than 5.8 and there is a sharp rock awaiting your butt if you whip of the crux. To keep it at 5.8 use the obvious flake to your right for a couple moves then surmount the bulge on decent holds. Not a memorable route.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree with Matthew above—it's not clear where this route goes. Near the top of the climb (ten-twelve feet to go), are you supposed to stay left and follow the bolt line, or, are you supposed to sink your fingers into that sweet crack that goes off right? If you stay left, you have to hang off the corner with your left arm on a pretty steep face (a bit committing for a 5.8), if you go right, the line seems a bit contrived because then you have to traverse back left again. This route reminds me of Schist Another Sport Climb on the New Wave. It could be a "gotcha!" climb.