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South Canyon Point
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Conspicuous Consumption 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Hanson, 1987.
Page Views: 846
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Ben hoping his small nuts and cams will hold in th...
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Description 

This is a pretty good lead up a thin crack for 40 feet. Start in the small, left-facing dihedral just left of a roof and a large, left-facing, inside corner. Jam and stem your way up to some good ledges. The pro is decent but a little unnerving when you're making moves over a no. 2 RP in sandy rock.... Continue up the finger crack to a large ledge, then stem up a right-facing dihedral to the bolts.


Protection 

This has somewhat marginal pro in spots, because the rock isn't very solid. Full set of RPs, some Aliens, TCUs, micro cams or the like. Rack up to a #1 Friend. A #3 Friend is useful for the last short section. There are two bolts on top of the wall.



Photos of Conspicuous Consumption Slideshow Add Photo
Marc walking up to the obvious Conspicuous Consumption crack dead center of photo.
Marc walking up to the obvious Conspicuous Consump...
BETA PHOTO
Great, easy 5.8 crack system to the left of Thickly Settled and The Ladder
BETA PHOTO: Great, easy 5.8 crack system to the left of Thickl...
Conspicuous Consumption - follow the crack.
BETA PHOTO: Conspicuous Consumption - follow the crack.
Locker on "Conspicuous Consumption". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Locker on "Conspicuous Consumption".
Photo by Blit...
Comments on Conspicuous Consumption Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Mottinger
Jan 1, 2001

If you want my cam in the upper crack section, it's all yours. Good luck getting that sucker out.

By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 17, 2003

Man, someone musta got that cam before me. Didn't see it anywhere. Led the thing with only stoppers. A good moderate lead. Gets a little dicey about half way up. Not too bad though. Has anybody taken a fall on trad at Castlewood? How did the gear/rock hold up? Leading here has got me pretty sketched, but I keep on doin' it for some reason.

By Dan Mottinger
Mar 18, 2003

I've taken maybe two falls doing trad at Castlewood and both times my pieces held. The first was a firteen footer onto a #9 hex and the second onto a few fall nuts. The nuts were only in some face features and held after about a 6-8' fall. However, in some places where the rock does get soft, I would't like falling onto the pieces as a rule. I have practiced aid on cams in horizonal cracks and have had them blown, I believe because they hit irregularities in the conglomerate rock. Tri-cams would work better here, and with any cam placement watch that the lobed are on good rock and not resting on a protuding pebble.

By Darin Lang
Mar 18, 2003

I've taken a couple of trad falls, one on purpose. The "on purpose" fall was an Alien placement, on a screamer, right above a bolt. The Alien was well-seated and the rock looked good, but the rock blew out around the Alien before the screamer even activated. The other fall(s) were on perfect #2 Camalot placements in a big roof crack, which held. Dan is right - the passive placements are generally good where you can get them, but SLCDs should be treated as suspect in all cases, particularly in the smaller sizes.

By Drew McLean
From: Colorado
Nov 8, 2009

If there is anywhere to place early place often it's in Castlewood. I lead this today and it took small and medium nuts until the top where the crack widens to #3 Camalot. I did get a little off balance switching the corners half way up but never came off. Used a red c3 for a directional off the deck which "seemed okay". My experience is that I can get bomber nut placements here.

Cam placements need to carefully considered but a) because the rock surface has pebbles that break off and b) because the cracks are often a bit funky (not splitter) shaped causing cam placements to walk easier.

By ScoRo
From: Portland, OR
Dec 31, 2011

Fun lead. Does get sketchy halfway up. Not too hard of climbing, but the placements are dubious at best. I had a #2 C3, a little bitty stopper, and a 0.1 Camalot within 3 feet of each other and was pretty sure it was all junk. I did have a decent, medium-size stopper slightly below where it gets real thin, but it was making drum noises as I dragged it along the crack looking for a constriction... BUT, the feet are good, if you are comfortable with the grade, I would get something good down low....actually never mind, just know that your gear at the middle 'bulge' isn't going to be great, bust a few moves higher and you get into a wider crack that takes a #3 C4 just about perfectly (the first piece on the route that I 'knew' would hold). After that, it's clear sailing.