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Consolation 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 23, 2010
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Description 

This is a fairly silly variation that avoids the best climbing on Anartichoke yet fails to skip the hardest moves. However, if you feel the need to climb every single inch of this cliffline, don't miss this!

Begin as for Anartichoke. At the big ledge mid-way up, stay right and jam up the decomposing crack. While geographically this line is vurtually indistinct from Anartichoke, the character of the climb is quite different.


Location 

Next bolted line right of Silver Bullet. Start as for Anartichoke, then veer right up the right-leaning dihedral at mid-height.


Protection 

Bolts for the first half, gear to 1" for the top. No anchor, so top out or hand traverse the lip to the Anartichoke 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip recommended or #0 TCU to protect the start.



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