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Ron Olsen high-stepping a move on the lower slab.
I am going to go out on a limb here. This is one of the best slab route in the area. This climb offers continuous, quality climbing up a near vertical face/slab on knobs and small edges that lead to expose moves out a small overhang just below the anchor. A longer and better version of the "Scientist" with a hard move to gain a ledge near the top. The route starts on the northeast face of the rock just left of the old "Left Side" route. Climb up to the first bolt with caution or just stick-clip it. Reach a small crack and the first of several technical moves. Fire straight up on good holds and reach a small ledge. Climb up through a small bulge and get ready for 40 feet of great, near vertical slab climbing. The crux is getting to the ledge just below the overhang. Reach the ledge, climb right out the overhang on good edges and cruise up to the anchor.I would give this route four stars if not for dirt and a little moss still on the route. Should clean up nicely with more ascents. Be careful lowering as a 60 meter rope barely makes it to the ground.
15 bolts lead to a two bolt anchor. You need at least a 60 meter rope to reach the ground!
BETA PHOTO: Consilience.
Christa Cline on Consilience (left) and Susan Schi...
Christa Cline high-stepping on the upper slab.
Starting the first crux section. You tiptoe up and...
You're likely to experience some confusion as you ...
On what can be the crux section. There's basically...
Moving right around the roof is easy if you go hig...
Mike R high-stepping left to reach the arete.
At the fourth bolt of 15.
BETA PHOTO: Lin deciding left or right? (Both work.)
Aug 29, 2003
From talking to BobD on the day he put this up, I know that the FA date was August 26, 2003, not January 1, 2002.
Also, somehow the cliff got left out here. According to what Bob told me, this route is on the extreme left side of the Black Widow Slab, sorta in the gully area between Black Widow and Vampire, or at least that's how I understood what Bob said.
This route is clearly visible from Blood Doll on Vampire.
I'm looking forward to trying it, it sounds cool.
|By David A. Turner|
Jun 7, 2004
There may be only one other slab climb better than this in Boulder Canyon. That would be, in my opinion, Bearcat Goes to Hollywood. We had rope shortage with 60 meters, and had to leave a biner. It was worth it. Finding the route is straightforward. It is not very far up the gully between Black Widow and Vampire. The picture on the route description makes its location obvious. There is another route just to the left (Kate Moss?) that is unappealing in appearance.
|By David A. Turner|
Jun 9, 2004
Did this route again. This time, with the belayer climbing up a few feet, the climber is able to make it to the ledge with the very dead tree, about 20 feet off the deck. The options at this point are to down climb, or rappel off the dead snag (which we did). One bolt with a link at this ledge would be a better option. That way, the route could also be safely toproped by the second.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 26, 2004
A stellar climb; probably the best sport route I've done in Boulder Canyon. Continuously interesting climbing from bottom to top, with many 5.10 moves and several spots of 5.11. The route was quite clean, with no moss or lichen in evidence.
The move to the first bolt wasn't too bad; I didn't feel the need for a stick clip.
A 70m rope works well, allowing you to lower or rappel with a few feet of rope to spare.
|By Tom Painter|
Sep 11, 2004
Fantastic climb - the midsection is reminiscent of the second pitch of Earth Voyage in Dream - delicate diagonal. We predict though that we'll hear soon about someone decking off of this line - 60m given the variability in lengths of 60m cords isn't necessarily sufficient - 70m better! Kate Moss and the neighbor to the right are worthy warmups as well.
|By Bob Rotert|
Jun 15, 2005
Very fun route and an interesting slab climb. D'Antonio is the FA Meister!! Thanks for this one Bob!
I was surprised to see so many excellent climbers rating this 11 and not even easy 11.
Makes me think maybe I was on the wrong route...
To offer some comparisons for perspective.
> Crux of Aerospace in Eldo rated 11b,
> last Pitch of Doub Griffith rated 11b,
> 1st pitch of Athletes Feat rated 11a,
> 1st pitch of Country Club rated 11c,
> Naked Edge 11a/b
Don't get me wrong. I'm not dissing the route, at all, because it is great climbing and really fun. A great addition by Bob, Vanio & Moe all of whom can can climb way harder than this. However nothing on this route feels even close to as hard as any single crux on the comparison routes I listed. That's just my opinion in trying to bring some perspective to route ratings in Bolter Canyon which seems to be on some other scale than the US Yosemite Decimal System when it comes to ratings on many of the bolted routes.
Enjoy, but watch out when lowering off this one as a 200 foot rope is not quite long enough to get you all the way down!!!
|By Bruce Pech|
Aug 8, 2005
Superb, sustained slab climbing. The crux is at least .11a and probably .11b. If you plan on climbing Kate Moss as well as Consilience, a 70m rope (or two 60s) is mandatory. Lowering from Consilience takes 105' -110' of rope; lowering from Kate Moss takes about 115'.
Sep 28, 2008
An awesome pitch! One of the best in Boulder Canyon at the rating. I agree with the 11b/c for onsight. A little easier once you know where the secret holds are.
From: boulder, co
Nov 5, 2008
I hate to sound like I'm ragging on Boulder Canyon grades. I usually agree with them, and besides, I expect each area (and climber) to have their own biases one way or another. But, compared to the slabs I've done in JTree, Squamish and the Valley, I think this route is way over graded. It's still a fun route though.
|By chris schulte|
Sep 19, 2010
60 m rope puts you like 20' off the ground when lowering....
Grade seems good-ish to me..?
Jul 18, 2012
really good route. overall more sustained than the scientist over at plotinus, but the actual crux is significantly easier. being a slab, you can pretty much rest anywhere on it, so overall i would say this is easier than the scientist. nice long route with good rock quality and continuous climbing.