Conservative Policies 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Alan Bartlett & Debbie Daigle, March 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Dec 25, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Thin Wall
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Description This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the thin Wall's E. Side and orient according to the photo. This would best be described as the left-most route of the right half of the wall, just right of the large right-facing corner at the 1/2 way point. Climb a crack system upward just to the beginning of a bulge up top, then go up and right as necessary to stay in good rock and good holds.The route is traditionally rated (Vogel guide) as 5.8, but it seems that everything at Thin Wall is overgraded and this felt farer at 5.7.
Protection A standard light rack- nuts and cams.
| Comments on Conservative Policies |
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007
| Maybe I'm just getting old but "everything at Thin Wall is overgraded?" Sorry, Tony, don't mean to be a pain. I thought the routes on thin wall were all properly graded and I was very happy that I led Butterfingers and not this one! But this is a sweet line with some nice, thin holds and the stem/traverse move to exit is awsesome! |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 1, 2007
| I would second Tony's assertion that "everything at Thin Wall is overgraded". |
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 31, 2011
| Overrated probably applies more than overgraded.
New Vogel book shows it finishing more straight up on the right hand side of the three-block-split. Our leader did a little beached whale move finishing it. |
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Jan 24, 2013
rating: 5.8
| Good confidence builder for Jtree Trad. |
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