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The Thin Wall
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Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing 
Almost Vertical 
Butterfingers Make Me Horny 
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Chocolate is Better Than Sex 
Congratulations 
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Count on Your Fingers 
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Face of Tammy Faye, The 
No Calculators Allowed 
Peculiar Taste Buds 
Square Root 

Conservative Policies 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett & Debbie Daigle, March 1988
Page Views: 658
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 25, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: The Thin Wall

Description 

This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the thin Wall's E. Side and orient according to the photo. This would best be described as the left-most route of the right half of the wall, just right of the large right-facing corner at the 1/2 way point. Climb a crack system upward just to the beginning of a bulge up top, then go up and right as necessary to stay in good rock and good holds.The route is traditionally rated (Vogel guide) as 5.8, but it seems that everything at Thin Wall is overgraded and this felt farer at 5.7.


Protection 

A standard light rack- nuts and cams.



Photos of Conservative Policies Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Earle leading Conservative Policies.
Dave Earle leading Conservative Policies.
Dave taking the right roof exit on CP.
Dave taking the right roof exit on CP.
Comments on Conservative Policies Add Comment
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007

Maybe I'm just getting old but "everything at Thin Wall is overgraded?" Sorry, Tony, don't mean to be a pain. I thought the routes on thin wall were all properly graded and I was very happy that I led Butterfingers and not this one! But this is a sweet line with some nice, thin holds and the stem/traverse move to exit is awsesome!

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 1, 2007

I would second Tony's assertion that "everything at Thin Wall is overgraded".

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 31, 2011

Overrated probably applies more than overgraded.

New Vogel book shows it finishing more straight up on the right hand side of the three-block-split. Our leader did a little beached whale move finishing it.

By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Jan 24, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Good confidence builder for Jtree Trad.

By Daniel Evans
From: Twentynine Palms, CA
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

It's a one move wonder. The move in the beginning is 5.8 to gain the small ledge. If you go right and by-pass this move for easier climbing then yes this climb is no more than 5.7.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 24, 2013

Did the roof exit this time (on lead). Great jams!