|Hungover Wall - Right Side
Boulder up to a high first bolt (1/2") where you'll quickly confront the crux which can be done a couple of ways depending upon your height and/or flexibility. Taller climbers may opt to deadpoint for the sloping horizontal whereas shorter climbers will need to employ a crafty heel hook/crimp combo to succeed.
Past the crux you'll find the climbing to be rewarding as you stem and lieback up past horizontals, some better than others, to a reachy move past the fourth bolt and another crux (5.11) past the 5th bolt. The last moves are easier and lead to anchors on a small ledge.
This is a climb you'll either love or hate as it comes down to sticking the lower crux, although it's possible to get all the way to the top and pitch off the upper crux.
Between Suspended Animation and Segments in Space.
6 bolts, open shuts
|By Euan Cameron|
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jun 8, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
The crux is kinda funky. If you are 5'10" or over you'll think it isn't too bad, 5'8" and under you'll be thinking this is hard for 5.11d. Either way, commit to the move and you'll find the rest of the climbing OK. The move past the 2nd to last bolt will make you think, but it is probably no harder than 11c.
|By C Miller|
Jul 14, 2009
There are no chipped holds on this route, which ones do you have in mind?