|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Reid and Howard, 89|
|Submitted By:||Jeff Scheuerell on Jan 22, 2011|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Conquest of the Stud Monkey||Add Comment|
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From: Oakland, CA
5 days ago
Begin in a low-angle fist crack beneath a large block with a tree growing out of it. Reach a small ledge and climb the right side of the block. A few moves punctuated by solid stances lead to a crack switch. Step right into a water groove. Protection is available at the base of the water groove and then disappears for the next 20+ feet. Climb to a stance at a small ledge and size up the first opportunity for gear that's just out of reach. Make the move and continue through nice edges and a mantel that guards the anchors.
Just right of Simian Sex. Look for a large block with a tree growing out of the top. This route climbs the right side of the block.
Pro to 3.5". Optional 4".
Two bolt ASCA anchor with rap rings.
70m rope gets you to the ground.