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 ADVANCED
Loggerhead Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
?? Simian Sex Junior T 
Chester the Molester S 
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 
Drunk Tank T 
Edge-u-cator T 
Hammerhead T 
Here on the Inside T 
Lagerhead T 
Le Nocturne T 
Log Jam T 
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 
Orange Juice Avenue T 
Simian Sex T 
Sink Like A Stone S 
Sober Up T 
Sorry Poopsie T 
Sow Sow Sow T 
Swillar Pillar T 

Conquest of the Stud Monkey 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Reid and Howard, 89
Page Views: 347
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jan 22, 2011

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin in a low-angle fist crack beneath a large block with a tree growing out of it. Reach a small ledge and climb the right side of the block. A few moves punctuated by solid stances lead to a crack switch. Step right into a water groove. Protection is available at the base of the water groove and then disappears for the next 20+ feet. Climb to a stance at a small ledge and size up the first opportunity for gear that's just out of reach. Make the move and continue through nice edges and a mantel that guards the anchors.

Location 

Just right of Simian Sex. Look for a large block with a tree growing out of the top. This route climbs the right side of the block.

Protection 

Pro to 3.5". Optional 4".

Two bolt ASCA anchor with rap rings.

70m rope gets you to the ground.


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By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 21, 2015

Description:

Begin in a low-angle fist crack beneath a large block with a tree growing out of it. Reach a small ledge and climb the right side of the block. A few moves punctuated by solid stances lead to a crack switch. Step right into a water groove. Protection is available at the base of the water groove and then disappears for the next 20+ feet. Climb to a stance at a small ledge and size up the first opportunity for gear that's just out of reach. Make the move and continue through nice edges and a mantel that guards the anchors.

Location:

Just right of Simian Sex. Look for a large block with a tree growing out of the top. This route climbs the right side of the block.

Protection:

Pro to 3.5". Optional 4".

Two bolt ASCA anchor with rap rings.

70m rope gets you to the ground.
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