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BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...
P1. Climb the obvious left-facing flake/dihedral from the top of the first pitch of Old Man's Route. P1 ends at a ledge with a sizable tree and rappel anchors. This first pitch involves a few chimney moves and it's possible to sling some chockstones for pro.
P2. Climb the right-facing corner up and over a few ledge systems to the rappel ledge for the west face. Belay here to reduce rope drag or continue up through the notch to the summit ledges.
Start by climbing the first pitch of Old Man's Route.
Standard Seneca rack.
Luke in the first pitch or the second if you count...
Luke pulling on a loose block near the top of the ...
Luke near the top.
Headed up the second pitch
Maggie and Dad just near the end of P2
|By Bill Hutchins|
From: Bethesda, MD
Oct 7, 2007
The direct finish goes up a nice inside corner to the left off the second belay ledge. Very nice 5.5 climbing with several fun stemming moves.
From: Catonsville, MD
Feb 20, 2009
Super loose flake on the right facing wall of the dihedral just below the ledge with the tree on it.
|By George Privon|
From: Pasadena, CA
Jul 6, 2010
I second the comment on the direct variation. It is a much more enjoyable pitch than the original finish.
From: Erlangen, Germany
Sep 14, 2010
My first time at Seneca: after doing Simple J Malarky and not having much fun on it, getting lost on the way to do Green Wall, and saying "screw it, let's just get to the top before sun-down", I happened to be standing under this one which a very enjoyable cruise to the top. Usually I hate this low-level climbing because the falls almost always have ledge-fall potential. This is no different, except for the fact that falling is difficult to do! Even when I was 30 feet above my piece, I felt fine. I highly recommend this route! You could easily protect the whole thing with just nuts and hexes.
From: Pittsburgh, Pa
Jun 28, 2011
Do the direct finish to make it a 5.5. super fun!
|By Don MacKenzie|
From: Somerville, MA
Apr 5, 2012
I think this used to be 5.3 and the direct finish went at 5.4... those grades seemed more consistent by Seneca standards.
I highly recommend the direct finish.
P1 and P2 can easily be linked with 60m ropes. Try this with a 50 and your belayer will be simul-climbing the initial (very easy) moves.
There's also a direct variation down low that is worth doing. You climb a short, steep corner ("Stupid's Corner") immediately below the start of the chimney. It's probably 5.4 and you really only need to protect the exit move.
I recently did the 5.7 variation listed in the Barnes guide, which is about 10 feet to the right of the chimney pitch. it climbs the corner/chimney with 2 trees growing out of it near the base. Getting past the trees is a bit awkward but there's some good climbing above that makes it worthwhile.