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Upper Broadway
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Conn's East 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,260
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Jun 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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BETA PHOTO: Ashley on the crux move at end of p2.

Description 

This long, continuously traversing climb is a good introduction to Seneca's East Face, and it crosses, and shares belays with many of the area classics. It begins on Upper Broadway about 40 to 50 feet left of the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux.

Pitch 1: Climb a right-trending ramp/flake and ledge system with a couple of trees. Pass the trees, finish the pitch in a chimney and end at bolt achnors.
Pitch 2: Traverse up and right along the ledge to an imposing corner with a short vertical crack. Pass a scary bulge using some old fixed pro and use big jugs to move up to another ledge with anchors. This short pitch (and single 5.6 move) is the crux.

Pitch 3: Continue right along the ledge to an obvious flake and corner system that ends near the top of the route Gunsight to South Peak. From here, scramble to the summit.

Location 

Descend via West Pole rap route or Traffic Jam rap route.

Protection 

Some untrustworthy gear along the route, good anchors at each station.

Description 

This long, continuously traversing climb is a good introduction to Seneca's East Face, and it crosses, and shares belays with many of the area classics. It begins on Upper Broadway about 40 to 50 feet left of the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux.

Pitch 1: Climb a right-trending ramp/flake and ledge system with a couple of trees. Pass the trees, finish the pitch in a chimney and end at bolt anchors.
Pitch 2: Traverse up and right along the ledge to an imposing corner with a short vertical crack. Pass a scary bulge using some old fixed pro and use big jugs to move up to another ledge with anchors. This short pitch (and single 5.6 move) is the crux.

Pitch 3: Continue right along the ledge to an obvious flake and corner system that ends near the top of the route Gunsight to South Peak. From here, scramble to the summit.

Location 

Descend via West Pole rap route or Traffic Jam rap route.

Protection 

Some untrustworthy gear along the route, good anchors at each station.


Photos of Conn's East Slideshow Add Photo
Belay station at end of p3. From here it's an easy scramble to summit. I believe I took this photo from the summit.
BETA PHOTO: Belay station at end of p3. From here it's an easy...
Looking back to the 1st pitch belay ledge.
Looking back to the 1st pitch belay ledge.
The spacious belay ledge at the end of pitch 2. Use can also use the anchors here as a descent route.
The spacious belay ledge at the end of pitch 2. Us...
Jon coming through the crux on the second pitch.
Jon coming through the crux on the second pitch.
Third Pitch
Third Pitch
third pitch.  Notice the hole through to the other side above and to the left of climber
third pitch. Notice the hole through to the other...

Comments on Conn's East Add Comment
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By attila
Apr 11, 2010

This is NOT as great of a climb as some claim. Yes there are some cool moves, like the crux on P2 and the vertical section of P3, but it's kinda like Old Lady's route with a couple of 5.6 moves thrown in. A lot of strolling traverses on ledges - though I won't complain about the ledges providing comfy belays.
By Davis13au
May 4, 2012

Granted, it's not the greatest 5.6 on the planet but it's still a good multi pitch route at the grade. The first pitch starts off a bit awkward with not so great protection for the first few moves and the second pitch is short but lots of fun. It wanders across the ledges but you are climbing more than you are walking ledges. I wouldn't put it in Old Lady's territory. The last pitch is fun down low and then you can't beat the walk across the summit ridge.
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Jul 30, 2012

In the guide it mentions some fantastic 5.7 laybacks if you go off route a bit. Highly recommend this variation as it's some of the best climbing on the route. Otherwise i felt it was so-so. Lots of walking across ledges interspersed with short sections of cool climbing.