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Upper Broadway
Routes Sorted
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Alcoa Presents T 
Amazing Grace T 
Castor T 
Changling, The T 
Conn's East T 
Conn's East Direct T 
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 
Dinah Moe-Hum T 
Dirty Old Man T 
Discontent T 
Expletive Deleted T 
Frosted Flake T 
Grand Finale T 
Hidden Assets S 
High Test T 
Hopeful Illusions T 
Kid Galahad T 
Low Octane T 
Nip and Tuck T 
Orangeaid T 
Pancho and Lefty S 
Pickleright T 
Pollux T 
Soler T 
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 
Spock's Brain T 
Talbert Picklefish T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 
Time Flies T 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 
Vision, The T 
Windy Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Conn's East 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 5,713
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Jun 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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third pitch. Notice the hole through to the other...

Description 

This long, continuously traversing climb is a good introduction to Seneca's East Face, and it crosses, and shares belays with many of the area classics. It begins on Upper Broadway about 40 to 50 feet left of the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux.

Pitch 1: Climb a right-trending ramp/flake and ledge system with a couple of trees. Pass the trees, finish the pitch in a chimney and end at bolt achnors.
Pitch 2: Traverse up and right along the ledge to an imposing corner with a short vertical crack. Pass a scary bulge using some old fixed pro and use big jugs to move up to another ledge with anchors. This short pitch (and single 5.6 move) is the crux.

Pitch 3: Continue right along the ledge to an obvious flake and corner system that ends near the top of the route Gunsight to South Peak. From here, scramble to the summit.

Location 

Descend via West Pole rap route or Traffic Jam rap route.

Protection 

Some untrustworthy gear along the route, good anchors at each station.

Description 

This long, continuously traversing climb is a good introduction to Seneca's East Face, and it crosses, and shares belays with many of the area classics. It begins on Upper Broadway about 40 to 50 feet left of the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux.

Pitch 1: Climb a right-trending ramp/flake and ledge system with a couple of trees. Pass the trees, finish the pitch in a chimney and end at bolt anchors.
Pitch 2: Traverse up and right along the ledge to an imposing corner with a short vertical crack. Pass a scary bulge using some old fixed pro and use big jugs to move up to another ledge with anchors. This short pitch (and single 5.6 move) is the crux.

Pitch 3: Continue right along the ledge to an obvious flake and corner system that ends near the top of the route Gunsight to South Peak. From here, scramble to the summit.

Location 

Descend via West Pole rap route or Traffic Jam rap route.

Protection 

Some untrustworthy gear along the route, good anchors at each station.


Photos of Conn's East Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon coming through the crux on the second pitch.
Jon coming through the crux on the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay station at end of p3. From here it's an easy...
BETA PHOTO: Belay station at end of p3. From here it's an easy...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ashley on the crux move at end of p2.
BETA PHOTO: Ashley on the crux move at end of p2.
Rock Climbing Photo: The spacious belay ledge at the end of pitch 2. Us...
The spacious belay ledge at the end of pitch 2. Us...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back to the 1st pitch belay ledge.
Looking back to the 1st pitch belay ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Third Pitch
Third Pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the end of pitch 1 of Conn's East
Near the end of pitch 1 of Conn's East

Comments on Conn's East Add Comment
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By attila
Apr 11, 2010

This is NOT as great of a climb as some claim. Yes there are some cool moves, like the crux on P2 and the vertical section of P3, but it's kinda like Old Lady's route with a couple of 5.6 moves thrown in. A lot of strolling traverses on ledges - though I won't complain about the ledges providing comfy belays.
By Davis13au
May 4, 2012

Granted, it's not the greatest 5.6 on the planet but it's still a good multi pitch route at the grade. The first pitch starts off a bit awkward with not so great protection for the first few moves and the second pitch is short but lots of fun. It wanders across the ledges but you are climbing more than you are walking ledges. I wouldn't put it in Old Lady's territory. The last pitch is fun down low and then you can't beat the walk across the summit ridge.
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Jul 30, 2012

In the guide it mentions some fantastic 5.7 laybacks if you go off route a bit. Highly recommend this variation as it's some of the best climbing on the route. Otherwise i felt it was so-so. Lots of walking across ledges interspersed with short sections of cool climbing.
By Andrew G
Aug 10, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Really wandery route. It's got some fun moves in it, but there's just so much traversing it kinda detracts from the experience. Definitely do the 5.7 lieback variation on the first pitch, and if you're up for it, taking the direct line Alcoa Presents from the top of the second pitch straight to the summit is a fantastic way to finish the route.
By Benjamin Larson
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
May 17, 2016

This was my second multipitch trad route. I tried to lead the first section off the deck, only got up to the chockstone but couldn't make it past that. My partner lead the rest of the climb. The start is very scary with minimal pro. The route involves quite a bit of traversing which was new to me. The summit is exciting with lots of exposure! We were able to rap down from the keyhole on a 60 meter rope with 2 rappels, stopping at the Alcoa ledge after about 60 feet. The directions are good in the guidebook. Fun route, difficult for the rating, very alpine-like climbing the required every trick in my book!

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