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Conniption 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Long and Keith Cunning, December 1979
Page Views: 744
Submitted By: Blitzo on Nov 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: "Conniption".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This great crack climb, starts two cracks right of "Slam Dunk".
There are two small caves, an upper and lower one to the left.
Climb a slightly curving thin crack to the upper (right) cave. Chimney out of the cave and jam an excellent hand crack to the top.

Protection 

Pro to 2.5"


Photos of Conniption Slideshow Add Photo
"Conniption". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Conniption".
Photo by Blitzo.
The thin crack start of Conniption leading up to the cave
The thin crack start of Conniption leading up to t...

Comments on Conniption Add Comment
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By Josh McCoy
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 24, 2011

What is the name of the crack between Slam Dunk and Conniption? It doesn't appear to be in the Falcon guidebook but it's pretty good. I toproped it recently. The move out of the cave (left cave) is a bit reachy. 5.9ish overall I thought.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 24, 2011

What is the name of the crack between Slam Dunk and Conniption?

The route is called Tom Plum (5.9+).
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 28, 2011

This is a proud lead for the taking. Gear is good but slightly pod like down low with good moves to the cave. #1 and/or #3 camalot protect the roof with a very toothy hand crack to the summit. Build your own anchor using #3, large nuts and stance. This is a physical lead with lots of grains. Reached the anchor with many compression marks on the back of my hands. Ouch!
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 10, 2012

This rig is pretty cool, but also sort of jacked up too. A thin crack start seems like all puppies and unicorns and then the hard to place pro kinda runs out and the crack above starts looking proless and sketch. This is another one I futzed around on for an eternity and used all the chalk in my bag and could not really see the moves or the pro to continue directly up the thin crack. At least not if I wanted to live.... I ended up doing a quasi horrendous move out left to gain the top of the alcove and some good hand jambs. I would say offroute, but hey, I tried the moves 67 times and never hung, so WTF? What is the deal with that thin crack? It might have well have been a RURP seam for my money. Sooze said it was casual and I was just having a "conniption". Probably true, but still, WTF??

Ok... we are now under the roof and thinking this is going to be tough! Not so! The pro there is anything on your rack and the jambs fit everyone. A few chimney moves with a hand jamb get you out of the hole and into the toothy hands to the summit. No real cruxes ahead, but plenty of jamming in the 3" and under range. Drop in 3 or 4 cams in the 3" range and you will be good to go. All bomber gear and hands but sorta pumpy to the summit. Belayed over the top with some sweet rope drag to keep you anchor less. Move down to the chains at the top of Negro Vortex to descend.

I'd go 2 1/2 stars, especially for the wall.
By MikeP ROWCC
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I had a very different experience on the climb. The pro is great down low, you can see all the placements before you start climbing. Bomber aliens. Maybe a slightly awkward to place, but hey, it's Josh 10b. If you make it past the 10b moves with a piece at your waist than the 5 feet of 5.8 afterward without pro shouldn't cause you any problems.

Awesome hand crack after the cave.