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Broadway 

5.8

   

FA: J. Reppy, G. Young, F. Carey 1958
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 870 page views

Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 23, 2006


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The Skull and Bones block - Broadway is the crack ...


Description 

Near the right end of the face is a huge block forming a roof about 50' up. Broadway goes up the crack to the right edge of the block.

This is one of the best routes on the cliff - continuous 5.7 - 5.8 climbing with good pro if you know how to place it.

The crux is just before you reach the roof.

The block that marks the roof is the Skull and Bones block - named after the secret society at nearby Yale University.


Protection 

Mostly medium and small wires and cams. This route has seen a number of spectacular leader falls so place pro when you can.



Photos of Broadway Slideshow Add Photo
At the first crux go to the left.  The undercling on the left sets you up much better...

BETA PHOTO: At the first crux go to the left. The undercling ...


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By Marc H
From: Lafayette, CO
Feb 16, 2008
rating: 5.7+ PG13

IMO, the crux is higher than the author indicated. There's also a PG-13 section near the 1/3 or 1/2-way mark of this route.

By John Peterson
Feb 17, 2008

This route is consistant enough that there are plenty of cruxes to go around- the higher one is about the same as the one below the roof but I find it easier to protect so I'm more relaxed. But I'll definitely argue about the PG-13 thing. There's gear just about everywhere on this route if you're clever enough to find it and have the right stuff on your rack. Traprock is incredibly featured and with patience you can get decent gear in all sorts of unlikely places. But often this is an issue of having just the right RP or tiny cam.

This particular route has been the scene of many spectacular falls by climbers unfamiliar with traprock. Many years ago, a visiting "5.10 is just a warmup" climber proceeded to charge up this route to a point just below the roof placing only a single micro cam along the way - suddenly he was flying off and missed cratering by just a few feet. Fortunately that one tiny cam turned out to be OK. On his second effort, he managed to find a lot of gear he had overlooked on the first attempt and had something in about every 3 feet through the crux section.

The real problem is that it's so tiring to hang and place the gear that doing this route with a PG rating makes it a lot harder than at a PG-13 or R rating.

By CODJOL
Nov 11, 2008

The crux on this one can be a little tricky, but it's mostly just a "getting over your nerves" move. It is just before the roof of Skull and bones, as I remember, the final move. The roof is a little high and you're on an undercling hold. Just trust the hold and power up to the roof - it's a solid hold up there. After the crux... enjoy the view on top of Skull and Bones - it's pretty much a staircase from there.