This is a totally classic Connecticut crack line. It is unforgiving the whole way although the beginning is the crux. The variation directly over the roof feels slightly easier, but its still pretty tough. Small fingers really help. Good Luck.
Location
This route takes the way too obvious and grossly overchalked fingercrack to the right of Cat Crack.
Protection
There was a bolt at the start but it was chopped. Mostly small nuts and cams. You could place a large cam in the overlap, but above the overlap is a little hairy
This was a strenuous and very sustained crack. So far I have yet to lead this beast. That might be a little while.
By DVuono From: Burlington, VT Nov 30, 2008 rating: 5.11c
I thought the gear was excellent and would even give the gear rating G. Although you would not want to fall before placing the first piece. But otherwise, the gear was great and not too strenuous to place. Given you knew where each piece went(a bit of a cop out for any purists out there wanting to climb it ground up which would be considerably harder and much more mentally challenging.) I thought this route had the perfect amount of committing moves and runouts above bomber gear and gave a great combination of a physical and mental challenge. I think this is one of the best single pitch traditional routes I have ever done.
I have fond memories of leading this monster in the late 1980s. I remember stuffing my head into the overlap after the crux to try to get a rest, and then launching out on the final 15 or so feet with utterly flamed forearms, crying as I lunged from hold to hold. Bruce Dicks was belaying, and I recall him saying that he wished he had a tape recorder to capture my melt down. Classic traprock -- epic.
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