I'll go out on a limb and say this is the best climb in the state. Climb the crack with a variety of thin fingers and face holds to the top of the crack, traverse left, go up and back right. Tricky and sequential, and tough to protect on the lead. You'll need every trick in the thin crack book. I am a bit embarrased to be posting this since after many tries I only managed to do this once during the mid 90's shortly after Ken Nichols had made his 1000th ascent of the line! I gave it the traditional 5.11 grade, but let me say this is a SOLID 5.11. One might whisper sandbag...
Location
On the right side of the Amphitheater area is a large, left facing corner where Squirrel Cage is located. Dol Guldur is the thin crack system on the face to the left. To the left is the obvious overhanging jam crack of Cat Crack.
This route has been led (by Ken Nichols). It has also been climbed over 50 times in a day (also by Ken Nichols - that's over 4,000' of 5.11+ climbing). This beautiful crack splits a slightly overhanging face for about 65' until ending at a small roof. There is one crux about 15' off the ground, another a few feet later. Continued strenuous climbing brings you to the final sloper above the roof - easier 15' to the top. At the overlap near the top, you can get a kneebar in and climb straight through the roof via a small sloper - this is a more asthetic (and difficult) finish than moving left then right to avoid the roof.
By mobley From: Haven, Ct Nov 23, 2008 rating: 5.11 R
Just like most things climbing related in CT there seems to be a controversy. In this case a disagreement on how this climb is spelled: Dol Guldur - Dol Guldor. So it gets two entries? Seeing as though Ken Nichols first did it shouldn't his spelling (Dol Guldur) be the route name?
Mobley, This climb is not just a TR. It has been led trad many many times.
By mobley From: Haven, Ct Nov 12, 2009 rating: 5.11 R
Brian, thanks for the info. I consider a route that gets TRed 99 times + for every one lead a TR though. Maybe I need to go back and look a little closer for good gear, I do know if you blew it before the first piece went in you may end up at the bottom of a very steep rocky hill after pounding into a ledge.
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