BETA PHOTO: Fire Wall - far left line drawing from Traprock, K...
Description
70' west facing cliff. Excellent rock with some large roofs. Land owner: town of Southington.
In 8/2008 a group of climbers (C3 Connecticut Climbers Coalition) obtained permission from the town of Southington to place bolts at the Fire Wall. They also stabilized trails and cleaned up trash in the area.
Getting There
Park at Roger's Orchards (ask for permission to park). Walk north on Long Bottom Road. Left on Shuttle Meadow Road. .15 miles to old logging road on right, opposite from a tower. .75 miles on road to Metacomet Trail (blue blazes). L on Metacomet Trail a few hundred feet to old stone fireplace on top of cliff.
It may also be possible to park at Crescent Lake Park (further north on Shuttle Meadow Road), but a $25 annual parking pass is required, the parking lot is small (about 30 spaces), is shared by resident park users, and it is gated between 5pm and 7am. Parking passes are sold at the Southington town hall (parks and rec. dept. - basement) during normal business hours. If you park there, hike east along the shore of the reservoir, then up to the crag.
Route List
Route descriptions are adapted from Hooked on Traprock - Rock Climbing in Central Connecticut, Ken Nichols, 1995 (out of print and somewhat rare/expensive). Rock Climbing Connecticut, David Fasulo, 2002 includes 14 of these climbs and 1 line drawing. For the best line drawings, see Traprock - Rock Climbing in Central Connecticut, Ken Nichols, 1982 (available used on amazon.com).
Routes from left to right:
Ashen Face 5.9- RH *, tiny LFC
Flaming Arrow 5.8+ *, small LFC
Andiron 5.4 **, first major LFC
Firewood 5.8 *, second major LFC
Kindling 5.5 *, on R wall of Firewood
Hot Coals 5.5 R *, third major LFC
Red Hot 5.11 T *, R side of Hot Coals arete
Incinerator 5.10+ *, bulge to face
False Alarm 5.9+ *, crack through 12" overlap
Pyromaniac 5.11 *, overhanging corner to crack and freestanding flake
Arsonist 5.11- RH **, overhang to thin cracks and flake
Playing with Fire 5.11+ H **, left end of huge roof to left leaning corner
Fanning the Flames 5.9+ T *, var. start 7' L of Firebird
Firebird 5.10+ RH ***, middle of huge roof, 8' L along lip
Phoenix 5.10 ***, R of Firebird above lip
Blue Blazes 5.9+ R **, R to small LFC above lip (5.10 start)
Charred Remains 5.10- T *, L arete finish to Burned Beyond Recognition (5.11 start)
Burned Beyond Recognition 5.11 H ***, R end of huge roof to corner
Scorched Earth 5.4 R, blocky rock
Firecracker 5.9 *, contact line between blocky rock and smooth face