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Main Cliff

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Main Cliff

Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 21, 2006
Administrator: Ladd Raine
Views: 1,982 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

Main Cliff at sunset


Description 

This is the largest and most fractured of the central Connecticut crags.

This west-facing cliff is more popular in the summer and can be quite cold during the winter. Routes are up to 100 feet, and anchors are often set far from the edge. Bring your long climbing rope and anchor rope.

Many of the Connecticut's finest routes are at Ragged Mountain, including Wiessner Slab, Wiessner Crack, Unconquerable Crack, Broadway, the YMC Route, Carey Corner, and Subline. Climbers of all abilities will find high-quality routes at Ragged.

Ragged has a long climbing history - many famous climbers have put up routes there, including Fritz Wiessner, Henry Barber, and Layton Kor.

Descend from all climbs using the trails at either end of the crag.

Ragged Mountain is owned by a group of climbers, the Ragged Mountain Foundation. For directions to the crag and parking, please see their website at http://www.raggedmtn.org. Please respect the neighbors and avoid trespassing or parking in the many no-parking zones.

Although the RMF does not charge admission to their property, they rely on donations and memberships to survive. They have constructed trails, fought for parking, and advocated for climbers all through Connecticut. If you climb there you should become a member - an annual membership is cheaper than a single day in the Gunks.

John Reppy and Sam Streibert have generously allowed a copy of the original Ragged Mountain guidebook to be hosted on the Internet at http://haskell.org/jcp/ragged/ragged.html - this is an interesting historical document and also a very good guide to many of the classic climbs at Ragged.

Restrictions


This property is governed by a very strict conservation agreement. Adding new fixed protection is forbidden. Protection that existed when the cliff was transferred to the RMF can be replaced or upgraded but this is best done by locals.

Commercial use of Ragged Mountain is strictly regulated. Groups of more that 6 cannot use this area if participants are paying. If you have any questions about whether your group is commercial, please contact the RMF. Any large groups should contact the RMF before they use the crag.

There is absolutely no camping allowed on Ragged Mountain or anywhere nearby.

Please check the RMF website and the kiosk below the cliff for additional regulations.


Getting There 

See the RMF website: http://www.raggedmtn.org



Featured Route For Main Cliff
Opening moves

Subline 5.10d  Connecticut : Traprock Areas : Main Cliff
Another classic Ragged testpiece. Start at a roof immediately right of Unconquerable. Pull the roof into some tiny cracks and then climb mostly straight up. This pitch keeps coming at you and is a burly lead. The pro is all there but it's hard to hang and place it. Now that the fixed pins are gone this has become a real test of leading skills.If you want to TR this (and Unconquerable), locate a pine tree that's about 10 - 15 feet down from t...[more]


Add Photo Photos of Main Cliff
Floundering on "Angle of the Dangle."  I think its a 5.11.

Floundering on "Angle of the Dangle." I think its...


Add Comment Comments on Main Cliff
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By mobley
From: Haven, Ct
Mar 18, 2008

This place could use some anchors, ALL of the anchor trees are dying slowly from over use. It seems like a strange strange management policy for a place owned by climbers. Bring about 1000 ft of anchor webbing and sling away before all of the trees are dead.