Ladd Raine making the moves off of the crescent mo...
Description
More overhanging then it looks!
Start on the biggest wall at the bottom of a right diagonal crack that has huge jugs and handjams, layback your way up the crack to gain the horizontal, traverse 15ft right until you can get the hourglass pinch with you left hand, place some gear and get a rest with low feet, then get into the business, from the crescent moon shaped hold place then gun up some crimps to (multiple ways to go here-I'll describe the more common but less classic way 1st) the ledge 15ft short of the top, grab a flat "jug" and rearrange your feet then mantle-don't fall. Then continue up the slab to the very top, there is gear and tree anchors available. Variation, from the crimps in the crux continue going straight up bypassing the 'sissy-out ledge' to gain a jug, place a #3 camalot, deadpoint to a crimp get up your feet and make a memorable dynamic move to the lip and a huge jug shaped like a human head then mantle way above your gear on huge holds, it'll pucker your-well you know- and you'll never regret taking Forearm Frenzy all the way to the top, a real full-value climb!
Location
Obvious line up the biggest wall in the middle of the cliff.
Protection
Sucks up gear, remember to extend the lower stuff. Takes a blue alien in the crux just left of the cresent moon hold that protects you from the dreaded mantle-fall.
quite the description there Ladd. You may want to consider removing some of the beta you give on it though, seems a bit like cheating now to me. maybe more like what gear to bring and leave it at that? the glued on hold is gone right past the crux now. glue is fully exposed.
Chatfield Hollow
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