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Connecticut  


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Location: 41.5086, -72.8613 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jim O'Brien on Mar 18, 2006
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CT Climbing, Photo: Nate Labieniec

Description 

Climbing in Connecticut dates back before the 1930s when college outing clubs such as the Yale Mountaineering Club and the Appalachian Mountain Club were the on the edge with exploring these wild places to climb. The state is rich with classics, put up by legends such as Fritz Wiessner, John Reppy, Sam Streibert, Layton Kor, Henry Barber, and many other local heroes pushing the limits of free climbing.

The Central region of the state boasts the Traprock Ridge which contains gems like Ragged Mountain Main Cliff, East Peak, Pinnacle, CatHole and tons of smaller areas. This area also has great potential for bouldering near the climbing areas. The rock is basalt, a volcanic rock from ions ago. The texture is somewhat smooth similar to bullet sandstone, but the sharp edges and unique features offer a distinct feel to the rock. There are as many face climbs as there are crack systems to climb in the area, perfect splitters are few and usually rounded off making for some interesting climbing.

The South Central region of Connecticut along the shoreline offers plenty of climbing opportunities. Most notable is Chatfield Hollow in Killingworth. The short approach, easy parking located on state land and a wide range of climbs, although few in comparison to the mid state traprock, make this a favorite quick fix destination for area climbers. You are treated to some high quality granitic gneiss here, overhanging faces and great cracks, well worth a visit if youre in the area.

Bouldering can be found everywhere in Connecticut, there are glacial erratic boulders strewn across the state thanks to the second ice age. Mystic, Haddam, West Hartford, New Haven, and even Fairfield County, offer notable bouldering areas. Hammonasset State Park even has camping with facilities in a state beach park with some bouldering on the shore.

Climbing in Connecticut is awesome, even though we do not have the sweeping ridge lines of some of our western neighbors, the character of the climbing makes up for any lack of height. Crag height ranges from about 110 feet to 30 foot power climbs. The grading here seems to be stiff to some (aka Sandbagged); many classics have been up since the 1930s when a 5.7 was cutting edge! Many climbers find that the trad leads can be quite exhilarating, be warned that fixed protection is not always a given due to a tumultuous history in the state so be ready for some surprises and don't trust any descriptions listing fixed gear in guidebooks.

Historically, CT climbers have been held hostage to a small minority that enforce a super pure ethic at all costs and as a result top roping is common at all of the climbing areas rather then mixed routes or sport routes. This widespread top roping usually utilizes long static ropes or 1 webbing for anchors and often uses trees or a mix of gear and vegetation. This has resulted in widespread damage to clifftop ecology across most of the popular climbing areas. Fixed anchors have been proposed and talked about at many crags but, the minority who hold these areas hostage through vandalizing any conservation efforts, do serious disservice to our crags. One recent example were the anchors installed at the Great Ledge in South Western CT. Anchors were installed in the spring of 2011 to deal with widespread damage to the cliff top. Shortly after their installation a local father and son visited the crag and vandalized all the anchors redering them unusable and left the smashed bolts all over the cliff top creating a major eyesore. There are hopes, by many, that this narrow-minded view of this radical minority is dwindling in place of a more rational approach to climbing and conservation using a variety of techniques including, but not limited to, fixed protection. So please, look for bolted anchors or attempt setup a gear anchor before you tie off to a tree!!!

Currently there is only one guide book in print; The Falcon Guide- Rock Climbing Connecticut by David Fasulo, although there have been several other guide books published by the American Alpine Club and the Ragged Mountain Foundation which are out of print.

Connecticut Climbing 

This state has tons of climbing, strong ethics and all that information is too much for any one person to take on.

Please contribute your experiences and knowledge, contributions are greatly appreciated.

Check out Appalachian Mountain Club, Connecticut Climbers and Mountaineers and The Ragged Mountain Foundation

CT Map 

Please add areas based roughly upon the below map.
CT Base Map
CT Base Map


Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

1,148 Total Routes

['4 Stars',69],['3 Stars',404],['2 Stars',437],['1 Star',211],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',126],['5.7',66],['5.8',77],['5.9',106],['5.10',85],['5.11',68],['5.12',34],['5.13',8],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',91],['V2-3',244],['V4-5',155],['V6-7',69],['V8-9',15],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Connecticut:
Wiessner Slab   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Ancient Way   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Carey Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Zambezi Hatchet Head   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Pinnacle Rock : Right Wing Wall
Wiessner Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 40'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Broadway   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Pegasus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 70'   Cathole Mountain : Main Walls
Vector   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Nickle And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   South Buttress : Ballfield Slabs
YMC Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Thor's Hammer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   East Peak : Merimere Face
Unconquerable Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Devil's Cut   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 80'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Cat Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   East Peak : Amphitheater
Subline   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Forearm Frenzy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 90'   Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   South Buttress : Ballfield Slabs
Shape Shifter   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 55'   Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
The Cold Vein    5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Connecticut

Featured Route For Connecticut
Wiessner crack (looking down from top) and Weissne...

Wiessner Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CT : Central Valley : ... : Main Cliff
This is the corner above the right side of Wiessner slab. Either climb the slab, set your belay, and contemplate leading this climb in 1934 with ancient gear or start the corner from the ground on the inside of the chimney. By starting in the chimney(5.6+) it is easy to do in one pitch.This is a stiff but protectable lead that takes a variety of gear. You can protect just about anywhere if you can hang in there. I've seen some serious falls on this when the leader decided to just go for...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of Connecticut Slideshow Add Photo
Mianus River park boulder
Mianus River park boulder
Near Hartford
Near Hartford
Cat Crack, a Connecticut Classic
Cat Crack, a Connecticut Classic
Webb Mt Monroe CT
Webb Mt Monroe CT

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Aug 26, 2014
They show up that way because you rated them only one star, but appear based on community ratings... so says Nick.