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Connecticut sport climbing on the cover of Rock&Ice???
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By Rob Davis
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 28, 2013

question from non-native -

Are there any climbing spots that can be accessed using commuter rail from nyc? I grew up in CT but haven't been back in much more than a decade.


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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Feb 28, 2013

guy bon wrote:
I think an over-looked part of this discussion is the existence of mixed routes in CT. I know that at Chatfield Hollow, Firewall, and West Rock there are at least a couple mixed routes. These are not contrived either. Bolts are only added where they are necessary. The people establishing these routes aren't out to create convenient sport crags. If people actually lead these routes they would understand that. The only fully bolted sport crags in CT are Bear Rock and Pine Ledge which are both complete choss. I also think that this "grey area" would not be considered grey by 99.99% of logical human beings if they actually tied in and led Fresh Bag or any other of the bolted "trad routes". to even call some of these routes "trad routes" is ridiculous. They are top rope routes. This is how they would be listed in any guidebook in any popular climbing area in the country. There is no reason for Connectikooks to pretend that they are badass, cutting-edge, trad climbers. We aren't. The majority of CT climbers don't even lead. Anyhow, CT is a beautiful state if you stay on the coast or visit the northern corners. I would hate to have people think of the entire state as a latrine.


Nate,
I agree with you especially about the "baddass...trad climbers" vice top-ropers. Most of these faux trad leads are better off bolted. Although I disagree with the statement. "The only fully bolted sport crags in CT are Bear Rock and Pine Ledge which are both complete choss." Bear Rock chossy yes but Pine Ledge, which is practically in your backyard, is solid rock and lots of fun. With the exception of some initial route cleaning I've never seen any rock break there and I climb there a lot.


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By CJC
Feb 28, 2013

appreciate the locals who have actually climbed these routes chiming in and providing some real info.


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By wivanoff
Feb 28, 2013
High Exposure

Rob Davis wrote:
question from non-native - Are there any climbing spots that can be accessed using commuter rail from nyc? I grew up in CT but haven't been back in much more than a decade.


Rob: I'm not aware of any that will bring you right to the cliff. There may be some bouldering around Westbrook which could be fairly accessible but hardly worth it.

The Danbury line doesn't get you anywhere near St. John's Ledges in Kent. The Waterbury line gets you about 6 miles from Whitestone Cliff in Plymouth.

The Hartford line can get you to the Kensington station which is about 4-5 miles from Ragged Mountain. The Meridan station is about 5 miles from Hubbard Park, 3 miles from Cathole Pass and 4 miles from Lamentation Mtn.

As far as Firewall is concerned (www.mountainproject.com/v/fire-wall/106414781) I haven't been there in MANY years so really can't comment on the goings on there.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Feb 28, 2013
Bocan

CT is most definently a non public transportation state. I remember getting off the bus in high traffic areas and still having to walk a mile or more.


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By nick manning
From superior,az
Feb 28, 2013

"I think it's a great idea that you stay out of CT"

you also thought it was a good idea for you to stay out LOL

If its so great why did you move?

See here in AZ we do what we want and don't let some saggy old man dictate what we do.

I find it funny that all the CT natives who moved out west are lecturing me and telling me how I should stay out.

The other funny thing is that the real locals who still climb there seem to have done exactly what I said. They sacked up and bolted several crags, possibly right over some "trad" lines!

Hats off to they guys in CT that had the balls to do this and didn't worry about "oh god you are going to incite the bolt wars! waaaa.."

Is that vandalism? Do you disagree with the bolting that's been done in CT? Because that's exactly what I would do albeit on a bit larger scale.

After looking at some of the CT areas on here it seems like there would be some decent bolted face climbs.

Now on with the bolt rebellion!


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By nick manning
From superior,az
Feb 28, 2013

Nick Manning wrote:
I'd bolt up whatever area he frequents and then some.

Nick Manning wrote:
I don't condone outright vandalism...


You don't see a discrepancy between those two statements? Methinks you will if given just a little bit of thought.

its only a discrepancy if you think bolting is vandalism. The guys in CT seem to have done just that very thing judging by Brian's website.

Now lets start a dead pool and bet when each area will get chopped!


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Feb 28, 2013
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Nick Manning wrote:
..its only a discrepancy if you think bolting is vandalism.


I do consider bolting to be vandalism when done to someone else's route with the sole purpose of revenge.

Nick Manning wrote:
And don't worry i won't be visiting yuppy land CT EVER. CT is the place to use the bathroom between NY and Boston.

nick manning wrote:
I find it funny that all the CT natives who moved out west are lecturing me and telling me how I should stay out.


I see you're still having trouble with that whole reality thing. Good luck with that.

Lemon, out!


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By nick manning
From superior,az
Feb 28, 2013

The reality is that you moved away from CT because you think other states including AZ are better.

Its ok I'm sure there is plenty of vandalism for you to climb in CO.


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By CJC
Feb 28, 2013

nick manning wrote:
Hats off to they guys in CT that had the balls to do this and didn't worry about "oh god you are going to incite the bolt wars! waaaa.." Is that vandalism? Do you disagree with the bolting that's been done in CT? Because that's exactly what I would do albeit on a bit larger scale. After looking at some of the CT areas on here it seems like there would be some decent bolted face climbs. Now on with the bolt rebellion!


that's a really shitty attitude. maybe it's time to look at yourself and ask why you need a bolt every 3 feet on a 5.7. you're not a pussy are you?


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By nick manning
From superior,az
Feb 28, 2013

CJC wrote:
that's a really shitty attitude. maybe it's time to look at yourself and ask why you need a bolt every 3 feet on a 5.7. you're not a pussy are you?

uh oh first trad tough guy!

Yeah did you lead the 5.7 on two pieces cuz yer tough?


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Mar 1, 2013
modern man

Rob Davis wrote:
question from non-native - Are there any climbing spots that can be accessed using commuter rail from nyc? I grew up in CT but haven't been back in much more than a decade.


Rob, you could train it to new haven and take a bus EASILY to the west rock crag and walk no more than 2 blocks and the bonus would be getting dropped off in front of one of the best bars/pub in CT. finish climbing and go have a few tasty cold ones. West Rock will be on Mtn Project in a few months.

That is actually a future proposal to the city govt to open up some other areas, it could actually bring tourism cash to this financially strapped city. we have cliffs that have views of long island and they are perfect for some fixed anchors. people around here dont realize that a good majority of sport cliffs are choss to begin with

guy bon wrote:
I think an over-looked part of this discussion is the existence of mixed routes in CT. I know that at Chatfield Hollow, Firewall, and West Rock there are at least a couple mixed routes. These are not contrived either. Bolts are only added where they are necessary. The people establishing these routes aren't out to create convenient sport crags. If people actually lead these routes they would understand that. The only fully bolted sport crags in CT are Bear Rock and Pine Ledge which are both complete choss. I also think that this "grey area" would not be considered grey by 99.99% of logical human beings if they actually tied in and led Fresh Bag or any other of the bolted "trad routes". to even call some of these routes "trad routes" is ridiculous. They are top rope routes. This is how they would be listed in any guidebook in any popular climbing area in the country. There is no reason for Connectikooks to pretend that they are badass, cutting-edge, trad climbers. We aren't. The majority of CT climbers don't even lead. Anyhow, CT is a beautiful state if you stay on the coast or visit the northern corners. I would hate to have people think of the entire state as a latrine.


amen brother bon

I will say though, I like bolted choss. its what choss should be.


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By Joe Kreidel
From Tucson, AZ
Mar 1, 2013

Can't believe I lived at the base of West Rock for year, staring longingly at the cliff daily, scared away by the description in the CT guidebook, and now it's BOLTED???? May have to return to New Haven to sample more good traprock sport climbing.


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By Johnny Nubbins
Mar 1, 2013

TRmasta wrote:
Rob, you could train it to new haven and take a bus EASILY to the west rock crag and walk no more than 2 blocks and the bonus would be getting dropped off in front of one of the best bars/pub in CT. finish climbing and go have a few tasty cold ones. West Rock will be on Mtn Project in a few months. That is actually a future proposal to the city govt to open up some other areas, it could actually bring tourism cash to this financially strapped city. we have cliffs that have views of long island and they are perfect for some fixed anchors. people around here dont realize that a good majority of sport cliffs are choss to begin with amen brother bon I will say though, I like bolted choss. its what choss should be.


Is a 70m rope required? I've heard conflicting opinions about that.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Mar 2, 2013
modern man

Johnny Nubbins wrote:
Is a 70m rope required? I've heard conflicting opinions about that.


a 70m is required to make everything one pitch

a 50 or 60m works you'll just have to do 2 raps to get down


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Mar 6, 2013
Stoked...

Joe Kreidel wrote:
Can't believe I lived at the base of West Rock for year, staring longingly at the cliff daily, scared away by the description in the CT guidebook, and now it's BOLTED???? May have to return to New Haven to sample more good traprock sport climbing.


BOOM


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By nick manning
From superior,az
Mar 24, 2013

"Now lets start a dead pool and bet when each area will get chopped!"

I posted this 2/28

didn't even take him a month to start chopping....


FLAG


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