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The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)  T 
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Byzantine T 
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Connecticut Cracks T 
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Juvenile T,S 
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Old Town T 
Philidelphia Story, The T 
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Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 
Retlaw T 
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 
Rusticator T 
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 
Sea Gypsy T 
Space Between T 
Staircase, The T 
Standard Route T 
Star Face Mole T 
Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 
Swept Away T 
Trotsky T 
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 
Wet Lithuanian, The T 
Wilner's Route TR 

Connecticut Cracks 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Doug Madara, Casey Newman & Jeff Butterfield mid-1970's
Page Views: 5,815
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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John Gassel gets a great shot at the crux of Conne...

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route follows a series of discontinuous finger cracks.
Delicate footwork marks the crux of the rotue as you traverse left to right between cracks.

Location 

Several meters left of "Old Town" and immediately left of "London Bridges." Look for the obvious, discontinuous cracks (like the claw marks of a house-sized cat).

For additional info, click here

Protection 

Tiny and small nuts & cams up to 2-in for the finishing crack.
2-Bolt top anchor with rappel rings.


Photos of Connecticut Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Susan Lipton gets going on Connecticut Cracks
BETA PHOTO: Susan Lipton gets going on Connecticut Cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Connecticut  Cracks.
BETA PHOTO: Connecticut Cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: some good fingers on Connecticut Cracks
some good fingers on Connecticut Cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Linking Connecticut Crack with Fingers On A Seasca...
Linking Connecticut Crack with Fingers On A Seasca...

Comments on Connecticut Cracks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 25, 2007

While not regarded as being as classic as "Old Town" or other nearby routes, "Connecticut Crack" was the most memorable climb at the Precipice on a day when we climbed more than half a dozen routes. It remains one of my favorite routes to date.

Don't miss this one!
By Michael Buchanan
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This thing is sweet! The changeover is some awesome 6-12 feet of really really fun climbing. This route has a nice rest ledge before the business, so up and down climbing to place pro is a breeeeze.
By Michael Z.
Aug 16, 2011

I think the name is Connecticut Cracks with an S, Cracks, as there are a series of discontinuous cracks.

Anyway this is a fine route, if this is your limit get on it and take some falls, I did. After all you drove all that way.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 16, 2011

I'm almost positive that the f/a was jeff Achey
By chris magness
Mar 25, 2014

Madera, not sure when.
By Tom Stryker
Nov 19, 2014

Link it to Fingers on a Seascape, then the last pitch of Return to Forever and you have a stellar 2-3 pitch route!
By Max Dismukes
From: North Quincy, MA
Jun 16, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

So good! Stout couple of moves there with some hard smearing. I thought all of the climbing up to there and then after was way easier, but suuupaah fun as well. Green alien before the crux is bomber.
By PJ Benson
From: Jackson, NH
Jul 14, 2016

Is this anything like Airation over at Cathedral?
By Derek Doucet
Jul 18, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Not really, no. Airation is quite a bit steeper and more sustained, but has better locks. Ct. Cracks is a just a couple of smeary insecure moves at the crux with easier (but quality) climbing above and below.
By Tim McGivern
From: Medford, ma
Aug 25, 2016

Got on this today, and it is a great route to take some falls on. Bomber nut placements right where you want them to be. Fun to work. I didn't get it, so it will have to wait until next time.

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