|782 page views|
This route begins up the chimney/ramp to the left of Quartz Jester and between King Pin and Queen Pin. Climb to the highpoint between King and Queen. From there make a few difficult moves up the face of King Pin to gain another chimney. Apparently this originally went at 5.7, but over the course of time an important hold broke off. There is now a move or two of 5.8/5.9 to gain the upper chimney. Once in the upper chimney it is a runout cruise to the summit where one will find a bolted anchor.
Small cams are useful protecting the crux moves.