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Conn Route on Bell Tower 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Herb & Jan Conn
Page Views: 476
Submitted By: Tater Tot on Oct 5, 2009

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Description 

This is a fun and exhilarating route that doesn't see much traffic! Our party climbed this route on October 1st and we were the second to sign a new registry placed on June 22nd.

P1:
On the east side of Bell Tower (next to the Thimble) is a huge detached flake. There are two options, both chimneys. The left side chimney is the original Conn Route and the right side is a mega squeeze chimney variation by Walt Bailey. Belay at the top of the flake off a pair of bolts and webbing.

P2:
Step across onto the face of Bell Tower and clip a pin in a horizontal crack. Traverse left delicately on small holds into another chimney. Clip a new bolt, climb the chimney (30 or 40 feet) to a small flake and finish on 30 or so feet of unprotected easy face climbing.

Summit anchor (chains) is on the west face on the main summit block.

Location 

Climb down over the wooden fence in the Needles Eye parking lot and you're there. Tourists love to line up at the fence and watch if you climb the Bailey Variation.

Protection 

The Walt Bailey variation takes big gear, if that. You can get in maybe one #5 cam.

The horizontal crack at the traverse takes small gear nicely. Aliens, RP's, or a gray ghost.

The upper chimney is unprotected until you get to a flake.

There are a couple of new bolts along the route that ease the mind (a little bit.)


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