Congratulations 5.10d R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Unknown 1979, FL: Jonny Woodward |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Mar 24, 2002 |
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"Pancho" ticking another 5.11/5.10d at age 13. Pho...
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Description Approach Thin Wall's east side. Toward the left (south) end of the east side, near the wall's highest point, you will see a broad 3-foot roof with two tiers split by a crack. The right side of this roof is higher than the left. Congratulations climbs a system of small and insecure face holds and a seam to reach the crack at the roof, then charges through the roof on better holds. Turning the roof and establishing yourself above it is the fun and gymnastic crux.
Beta Hint- I actually got my foot stuck so badly over my head there that it was difficult to remove once past the crux sequence.
The route is rated 5.11a in the Vogel guide, but I felt that the route was more on par with the smattering of 5.10c routes I did than with the other 5.11a routes. Like most of the lines at Thin Wall, this one can be TR'd by setting an anchor from above. Odds are that one will be already there when you arrive if it is a weekend. I have only bummed a TR on this, and have not led it.
Protection Figuring out what sparse protection might fit should not be a terrible task to undertake. The crux in and of itself, at the roof, can be protected by cams.
BETA PHOTO: The Thin Wall
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BETA PHOTO: Steven K. getting to the roof in style
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I liked this climb a lot. Chalking up for the crux...
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Pull the roof!
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| Comments on Congratulations |
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By Woody Stark
May 1, 2004
| I've done easier 11A's: Iron Cross, Valhalla. So I have to hang with 11A. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 9, 2004
rating: 5.10d
| Valhalla and Iron Cross were easier? Well so is Swept Away and one of those Banana Cracks. Such a Savage is easier too. |
By C Miller
Administrator
May 4, 2006
rating: 5.11a R
| Nice thin face down low to cruxy roof moves higher up. A bit harder (and more technical) than Child's Play. |
By tinyonion
Jul 8, 2011
| Condition Report: When I was there a month ago the bolts at the top were so loose that you could twist both off with just your fingers. I would advise against setting up an anchor or lowering off these. |
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