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 ADVANCED
Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange 
Agronaut, The 
Banana Head 
Bete Noir 
Big Papa 
Big Rip, The 
Confederacy of Dunces 
Dance Connection 
Dikenstein 
End of the Tether 
Eyeless in Gaza 
Frigid Relations 
Mithras 
Pastryworks 
Promised Land, The 
Razor Crack 
Romper Room 
Rough Boys 
Sewer Rat  
Shadowline 
She's Crafty 
Stiletto 
Sundog Delight  
Tar and Feather 
Tits Out for the Lads 
Vanishing Point 
Vultures 
Yellow Matter Custard 

Confederacy of Dunces 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jerry Handren
Page Views: 607
Submitted By: bayard russell jr on Aug 10, 2011
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Description 

Above the roof, Confederacy has a airey feel that most of Sundown's routes don't have. Great climbing.

The initial corner and roof make a great warm-up at abut 5.11a - just above the roof you can easily traverse left along a horizontal hand crack to the anchor on Mythras (It was first climbed to this point by Chris Gill and Andy Ross, and, according to Ed Webster's guidebook, was called "Tits out for the Lads".)

The crux of the route is above the roof, it's great climbing with big, clean fall potential. All the moves feel pretty good on their own, but it's hard to put it all together.


Location 

Start below an obvious right facing corner just right of Eyeless in Gaza and Mythras.


Protection 

Trad gear protects about half the route, then bolts and a pin. A cam goes in below the roof.



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