The original trailhead was closed after someone was electrocuted themselves while playing on the powerlines. Access to the cliff is now gained by parking in a nearby park and hiking through a trailer park. As yet there have been no known incidents as climbers hike through the trailer park however, please be respectful of residents and low key at all times. Please observe any posted no-trespassing signs if they show up.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
OVERVIEW Short, pumpy routes on steep, edgey volcanic rock. The location itself is beautiful in its own way--the endless rooftops of nearby trailer-homes and the abundant high-power electrical wires overhead give the place its own unique character. There are just enough quality routes to make it worth the hike.
While the area is technically a sport climbing destination, the rock quality is not good and loose blocks abound. Exercise caution when choosing which routes to lead. Nearly all routes can be approached fromm the ridge above and easily top roped.
WEATHER/CLIMBING SEASON Hot in summer, cool in winter. Spring and fall are downright nice. The site is quick to dry out after spring showers.
From Hwy 101 in Newbury Park, exit Wendy Drive. Go west on Old Conejo Road, which parallels the freeway. Park in the Old Pepper Tree Playfield and continue down Old Conejo Road on foot.
By many accounts, the best route at MST.Start, down low on the left. Turn the arete to the right and climb the right side of the arete to a steep face. Awkward side-pulling marks the pumpy crux of the route at mid-height. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Dec 15, 2006
The routes here are short, I mean, REALLY short. It's easy to tick a dozen routes in a few hours. In general, the rock quality is fairly poor, although The Beginning of the End is quite good. Worth visiting once or twice, but certainly not a destination area.
There are some serious access issues with Mystery Science Theater. It is currently impossible to access the cliffs without trespassing on private property. The residents have made it abundantly clear they are tired of trespassers. In light of the overall poor quality of the routes- I'd recommend avoiding it.
It is technically trespassing to walk through the trailer park to access the approach trail. Over the years, I have experienced a wide range of responses from locals. Once, I received a warning from a security guard and told not to return. On several occasions, I have been invited in to a resident's trailer for iced tea.