Condor Condiment  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 565 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Jack Holmgren, Bob Walton, Keith Vandevere, 12/1989 Season:  summer-autumn (dry) Submitted By:  rhyang on Oct 31, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Noal Elkins leading the cool second pitch

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Raptor Closures! MORE INFO >>> Like a lot of the Pinnacles area, the High Peaks is subject to raptor closures. These closures affect all of the high peaks. The closures typically begin mid January and continue through to the middle of July. Please take these closures seriously. Our access to the High Peaks depends on our ability to respect these closures. For more info on closures go to the Friends of Pinnacles website (www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html) This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>> Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife: * From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999) * From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead) * Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214) * Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation. The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect. Signage has been posted at strategic locations. Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both. Resurrection Wall 2010 Submitted By: Closures and Restrictions on May 10, 2010 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Pitch 1 (165', 5.8) - follow a line of nine bolts to a 2-bolt belay just below a small roof.

Pitch 2 (100', 5.8) - traverse left past a bolt and then head up through an area with holes suitable for cams and tricams, and finally trend left with some thrilling exposure and three more bolts. 2-bolt belay.

Pitch 3 (100', 5.7 or 5.10a) - head up past a bolt and some more holes. You eventually want to gain a ridge. The guidebook said going more to the left is 5.7R, while heading straight up past a bolt is 5.10a. I did the "5.10a" way and didn't think it was that hard, YMMV. Once on the ridge, clip another bolt, then belay at a one-bolt anchor, supplemented with gear.

Pitch 4 (200' to the summit, fourth class) - traverse right, then atop ridge past a couple more bolts. We downclimbed a bit, then up a gully. Two bolt belay with rap rings.

The route ends on the north summit of Condor Crag.

Location 

Approach: hike north from the junction of the High Peaks trail and the Juniper Canyon trail about 0.4 miles (there is an outhouse at this junction, which is about 2 miles and 1200' elevation gain from the Bear Gulch parking lot). The trail will dip down, and then climb back up steeply, up some steps cut into the rock and a railing. Pass Long's Folly on the left.

The next major formation on the left will be Condor Crag, which has a north and south summit. Observe the gap between them near a large gray/digger pine, then take the handrail and steps down.

The route is on the north side of Condor Crag. Continue on the trail until it is possible to descend along the north face, perhaps 100'. Bushwhacking and some third class scrambling required.

Descent: Rappel from the summit to the first intermediate rap station near a tree -- do not go all the way down to the big alcove with the chockstone : otherwise the rope is likely to get stuck going over the sharp edge. Rappel a second time to the High Peaks trail.

Protection 

Cams from 0.6" to 4" (can probably leave out the #3 though), tricams, quickdraws, some longer slings, maybe a small selection of nuts. 60m rope.

Photos of Condor Condiment Slideshow

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Looking down partway up first pitch	Looking down partway up third pitch	BETA PHOTO: Fourth pitch exposed traverse and downclimb
BETA PHOTO: Gap between North (right) and South (left) summits...