This all naturally protected route is a direct start to the almost forgotten multi-pitch route "Boots of Spanish Rubber" established by Kimball and Suzuki in 1984. It starts from the ground just left of the Central Chimney in a small, left-facing dihedral which turns left into an undercling roof. After passing the roof on the left, it traverses right on a thin crack (#2 TCU) to reach the flakes where Boots has its 5.11 crux for a few feet. This section of Boots is rated 11 R but protects well with small cams and nuts, although it is an insecure place to stop and place gear. The route traverses left above the flakes to the bolt placed for a belay on Riders on the Storm. This bolt was replaced and given a ring hanger which is equalized with a large nut in the crack just above to make a two piece anchor for this one-pitch test piece.
Cams from #3 Camalot to #2 TCU are helpful, and this route is a sew-up if wanted.
|By Roy Leggett|
Jul 28, 2005
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a PG13
This is a great addition to Twin Owls. [Don't] underestimate it, it packs a punch. The gear is good....but you need to know where to place it. My belayer was telling me if the gear in the layback/ undercling flake was good because I [couldn't] really see it. Also, save a green alien for the traverse between the two cracks.