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Twin Owls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alignment of the Misaligned 
Arm and Hammer 
Autumn Mist 
Black Lichen Streak 
Bowels of the Owls, The 
Caught in the Slaughterhouse 
Cavity, The 
Central Chimney 
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) 
Crack of Fear 
East Ridge 
Fist Fight 
Hungry Man 
Jamesia Jam 
King Cobra 
One of Life's Little Problems 
Organ Pipes 
Parachute Pants 
Peaches and Cream 
Pin Route 
Rather Fight Than Switch 
Senseless Meaning 
Sunset Arete 
Thimbleberry Jam 
Thin Crack 
Tiger's Tooth 
Tighter Squeeze 
Tilted Mitten 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct 
True American Pinch 
West Chimney 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) 
Wolf's Tooth 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Eli Helmuth, 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Aug 20, 2004
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This all naturally protected route is a direct start to the almost forgotten multi-pitch route "Boots of Spanish Rubber" established by Kimball and Suzuki in 1984. It starts from the ground just left of the Central Chimney in a small, left-facing dihedral which turns left into an undercling roof. After passing the roof on the left, it traverses right on a thin crack (#2 TCU) to reach the flakes where Boots has its 5.11 crux for a few feet. This section of Boots is rated 11 R but protects well with small cams and nuts, although it is an insecure place to stop and place gear. The route traverses left above the flakes to the bolt placed for a belay on Riders on the Storm. This bolt was replaced and given a ring hanger which is equalized with a large nut in the crack just above to make a two piece anchor for this one-pitch test piece.


Cams from #3 Camalot to #2 TCU are helpful, and this route is a sew-up if wanted.

Photos of Condones Slideshow Add Photo
The Owls West face routes.
BETA PHOTO: The Owls West face routes.
Steve pulling the final crux on Condones.
Steve pulling the final crux on Condones.
Steve at the first crux.
Steve at the first crux.
Buster J. high stepping into the upper crux.
Buster J. high stepping into the upper crux.
Comments on Condones Add Comment
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By Roy Leggett
Jul 28, 2005
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

This is a great addition to Twin Owls. [Don't] underestimate it, it packs a punch. The gear is good....but you need to know where to place it. My belayer was telling me if the gear in the layback/ undercling flake was good because I [couldn't] really see it. Also, save a green alien for the traverse between the two cracks.