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 ADVANCED
Twin Owls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 
Anaconda T 
Arm and Hammer 
Autumn Mist 
Black Lichen Streak TR 
Bloop T 
Bowels of the Owls, The T 
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 
Cavity, The 
Central Chimney T 
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 
Condones T 
Copperhead 
Coyote T,S 
Crack of Fear T 
East Ridge T 
Fist Fight T 
Hungry Man 
Jamesia Jam T 
King Cobra 
One of Life's Little Problems T 
Organ Pipes T 
Parachute Pants T 
Peaches and Cream T 
Pin Route T 
Prow, The T 
Rather Fight Than Switch T 
Rattler 
Senseless Meaning T,TR 
Sunset Arete T,TR 
Thimbleberry Jam T 
Thin Crack T,TR 
Tiger's Tooth T 
Tighter Squeeze T 
Tilted Mitten T 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 
True American Pinch 
Twister T 
Viper 
West Chimney T 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 
Wolf's Tooth T 
Unsorted Routes:

Condones 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eli Helmuth, 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 808
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Aug 20, 2004

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Buster Jesik about to bust a move through the fina...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This all naturally protected route is a direct start to the almost forgotten multi-pitch route "Boots of Spanish Rubber" established by Kimball and Suzuki in 1984. It starts from the ground just left of the Central Chimney in a small, left-facing dihedral which turns left into an undercling roof. After passing the roof on the left, it traverses right on a thin crack (#2 TCU) to reach the flakes where Boots has its 5.11 crux for a few feet. This section of Boots is rated 11 R but protects well with small cams and nuts, although it is an insecure place to stop and place gear. The route traverses left above the flakes to the bolt placed for a belay on Riders on the Storm. This bolt was replaced and given a ring hanger which is equalized with a large nut in the crack just above to make a two piece anchor for this one-pitch test piece.

Protection 

Cams from #3 Camalot to #2 TCU are helpful, and this route is a sew-up if wanted.


Photos of Condones Slideshow Add Photo
The Owls West face routes.
BETA PHOTO: The Owls West face routes.
Steve pulling the final crux on Condones.
Steve pulling the final crux on Condones.
Steve at the first crux.
Steve at the first crux.
Buster J. high stepping into the upper crux.
Buster J. high stepping into the upper crux.

Comments on Condones Add Comment
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By Roy Leggett
Jul 28, 2005
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13

This is a great addition to Twin Owls. [Don't] underestimate it, it packs a punch. The gear is good....but you need to know where to place it. My belayer was telling me if the gear in the layback/ undercling flake was good because I [couldn't] really see it. Also, save a green alien for the traverse between the two cracks.