I'm home for a wedding next week and don't have time to do much climbing, but wanted to see about the possiblity of running up the Great Arch one late afternoon/evening. It seems to be pretty awesome - something all NC climbers should check out.

I've never done the route and it's been a while since I've been to Stone. When do the gates close? If I wait until 30 mins or so before sundown will it be cool enough, and will I be able to walk off and get out by closing time? If I'm not familiar w/ the walk off will I get lost at dusk?

Also, it will be mid-week so I hope to be alone. What are the chances I'll run into other parties epicing before dark?

Any other easy route of similar length which I can walk off? Not planning on bringing a rope home. Thanks!

The last time I was there, I saw with my own two eyes climbers getting reprimanded for being on a route too close to dusk. I would plan to be off earlier than you need to be (vs. just enough time to watch the moon rise in your car, like you would at a normal crag). I'm not sure when they actually close the gates, but if I recall correctly, the signs say "gates close at sunset"- just like at Hanging Rock SP; I could be wrong though, I don't specifically remember.

I've never run it that close to dark climbing, but I have been at the top close to dusk, and I didn't see any other parties climbing that late when I was there- that's not to say it doesn't happen. I think though, because of the semi-strict nature of when you have to be off, most people don't cut it close.

Another 5.5 that's a few routes to the right of GA is No Alternative. Pure friction (with a few exceptions) from about the halfway point up. If you take U-Slot to get to the tree ledge, this will give you a good preview of the second pitch of No Alternative. Same walk off as The Great Arch. I've never done the walk off, so I can't offer any beta on it. I hear it's long though. They're both really fun, mellow routes (the Arch more so than No Alternative IMO). Enjoy! The usual NC MPers can probably give you more detailed beta than I can.

Thanks mutton. The forcast for next Wednesday is high of 78 and mostly cloudy, so I suppose it won't heat up too much and I'll be able to start a few hours before sundown and enjoy the walk off. Only reason I wanted to start late was to avoid other parties and the heat. 78 is hot at Stone, but I guess I'll have to wait and see.

If it's really cloudy and cool enough I might to GA first and then check out NA. All friction is fine, but it's probably best to warm up on GA first.

Thanks!

Hey Ryan, the state parks web site says 8am-8pm. Sun sets at 8pm. The Arch sees afternoon shade if heat is one of your concerns. The walk off is not that bad if you bring your approach shoes because the trail takes you right back to the parking lot. I would think if you ran down you could make it in 15 minutes or so. If you have never done the entrance crack its the easiest way up to the tree ledge that is somewhat spicy, rope or no rope. As far as "no alternative" its a decent choice if there is an epic happening on the arch but its unlikely that late in the day during the week. Its the obvious left facing corner to the right of the GA corner. Also leaves from the tree ledge. Have fun.
Adam

I forgot to mention the walk off is climbers left. Just walk left and up from the top-out and you cant really miss the trail. look for marks on the rock and/or a wooden staircase going down to the left. If you are wanting to walk off to do another route Ive heard you can walk climbers right and go down lower angle rock but I've never done it and it may be a longer walk than it sounds. Also expect to bushwhack if you do that.

Edit: Nbrown quotes from another thread. "Also, it is common for the Stone Mtn regulars to hike/scramble off the right side if doing a route in that vicinity. Just 4th class down to climbers right a long ways, eventually turning around and climbing easy 4th/5th for the last 100 feet or so. There is an old bolt that I use to identify the correct spot. If your uncomfortable with this just keep moving toward the shoulder (right) for lower angled slab. This method might not be best unless you plan to frequent stone, as it takes a little time to figure out."

Thanks Adam. How are you guys enjoying the new life in NC? Getting a lot of climbing in I hope. Some of your pics from Linville are awesome!

I forgot that GA is a giant east facing dihedral - I won't have to wait until the end of the day for it to be cool enough.

I don't think I've done Entrance Crack. If I have it was over 10 years ago. The only routes I remember to the tree ledge are "Block Route?" and some insane 5.10 r/x frictiony nightmare. I'll have to check out the routes you guys have mentioned.

Thanks for the walk off beta. Even if I only do one route it will be nice to get on some NC granite! Take care!

Entrance crack is exciting simply because you have no gear. I would definitely say the move onto the "block" would be a whole lot scarier without the pro right at your feet. For what its worth the better soloing route would be Entrance crack IMHO. As far as time, doing the block route wont save you any. It will only take 20 seconds to walk over to the Arch. I do agree that the block route is a fun route though. Still my favorite to access the ledge.

Thanks guys. Glad I posted - I actually thought that there was a "4th class" way up to the tree ledge. I'm sure we did it unroped back in the day - going up cracks and passing some trees. Maybe that was Entrance Crack? I do remember it feeling kind of exposed for "4th class."

Anyways, EC sounds like the way to go. I don't think I'd be up for the block move w/o a rope unless I had done the route recently. That move is the only part I remember about that pitch, so it was obviously not "easy" for me then. Who knows what it would feel like now - I don't think I'll find out solo.

The Entrance Crack is slow because it is often jammed with other parties--most of whom are desperately trying to protect it with something. The Block Route is fun and I've never had to wait to get on it. If no one is there, then the Entrance Crack will be the faster of the two.

Temps this week will be great for Stone. Next week's forecast has highs in the low 80s. If it fits your schedule it would be worth going in the early morning rather than at the end of the day.

I miss Stone and The Great Arch! I only climbed Entrance Crack once. All the other times, I used Dirty Crack. Despite the name, it is not dirty and a much nicer pitch than Entrance Crack IMHO. The walk off is not bad at all. If I remember correctly, it takes about :20. Probably faster to walk off than rap off. You will not have trouble finding the trail. Just walk up the rock until you reach it, then go left.

It is a great climb and not too time consuming. I hope you have a great time!

You better get ahold of me!

U-slot to GA makes a nice solo if there are no climbers in your way.