Conditional Bliss 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 130 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Todd Goss & Chloe Ence |
| Submitted By: | jtwalter on Nov 17, 2009 |
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Wayne leading Conditional Bliss. Harbingers in the...
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Description Another longer single pitch route that climbs varnished edges up the middle of Prophecy Wall. This climb shares the first four bolts with Harbingers and Caging the Zealot, climbing the wall between these two routes. Route trends left on the main wall after the fourth bolt.
Location Between Harbingers and Caging the Zealot.
Protection 13 bolts w/chain anchors.
NOTE
If using a 60 meter rope you will need to lower off the mid route anchors on Caging the Zealot. I used a 60 meter rope and was able to lower from the chains at the top to the 2nd bolt but had to down climb from there.
BETA PHOTO: A-Past Lives
B-Caging The Zealot
C-Harsh Realities...
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| Comments on Conditional Bliss |
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By Ryan Henderson
From: Pleasant View, UT
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| This was an awesome route. Mainly because of the exposure. You already start on a ledge that's 20-30 feet up. Then, you proceed to climb one pitch of 130ft. So by the time you're done climbing one pitch, you're up there! The moves aren't that bad, and everything is there. It starts out with some slabby moves, then gets more vertical. Great climb! Loved it!
I've seen people rap from the mid-rap station of Caging the Zealot. Watch out for sheath wear though if you do this, you must traverse quite a bit. Our 70m made it in one rappel with 3-5ft to spare. |
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