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Thunder Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Backlash S 
Beast in Me, The T 
Concertina S 
Gun Club S 
Let's Make A Deal S 
Loud Noise S 
Momma's Squeeze Box T 
Mushrooms T 
Right Son of Thunder T 
Screamer Crack T 
Super Crack T 
Transcendence S 

Concertina 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: ---- on Sep 17, 2013

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Description 

Concertina is a hidden classic. When viewing it from the ground it's evident that it has good rock, but what you can’t see is its wild selection of handholds. Get on this route to experience a truly unique blend of bubbly pocket jugs and tiny positive sidepulls. The climbing is close to vertical which allows for some improbable balancy moves. Numerous cruxes pop up on this route with the final one coming at the last bolt. At this point decide whether to go left or right and then hang on for the remaining easy runout to the chains. A positive attitude and a good brain will prove to be your greatest assets on this “thinking man’s route”.

Location 

Vertical Route with two foot roof at mid height.

Protection 

6 bolts + anchor, stick clip the first


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