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Concertina 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: ---- on Sep 17, 2013
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Description 

Concertina is a hidden classic. When viewing it from the ground it's evident that it has good rock, but what you can’t see is its wild selection of handholds. Get on this route to experience a truly unique blend of bubbly pocket jugs and tiny positive sidepulls. The climbing is close to vertical which allows for some improbable balancy moves. Numerous cruxes pop up on this route with the final one coming at the last bolt. At this point decide whether to go left or right and then hang on for the remaining easy runout to the chains. A positive attitude and a good brain will prove to be your greatest assets on this “thinking man’s route”.


Location 

Vertical Route with two foot roof at mid height.


Protection 

6 bolts + anchor, stick clip the first



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By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Sep 18, 2013

Fred, you are a wordsmith with your route descriptions. Keep up the good work.

By ----
Sep 20, 2013

Thanks. It's not hard to write a good description when the route is as inspiring as this one!

By Mark Paulson
Mar 18, 2014

Each subsequent crux feels more unlikely than the last- when you clip the shuts, you'll feel like a wizard. Several moves seem impossible at first, but it all goes. So good!