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Illusion Crags
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Who Deany 

Con Jurors 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Collins/Allen, 94
Page Views: 268
Submitted By: SexPanther aka Kiedis on Feb 5, 2012
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Description 

Avoids lower seam by a scramble up+right, then back left along a ledge. From there straight up crack to sling anchor, then past bush to obvious right-leaning crack in upper varnish. Follow this to a bolted anchor.


Location 

Tall, shady, varnished wall around to the right of Who Deany vicinity. Anchor is visible just left of a wide crack just above a horizontal break a little over 100' up.


Protection 

Double cams helpful.5-3


Description 

Avoids lower seam by a scramble up+right, then back left along a ledge. From there straight up crack to sling anchor, then past bush to obvious right-leaning crack in upper varnish. Follow this to a bolted anchor.


Location 

Tall, shady, varnished wall around to the right of Who Deany vicinity. Anchor is visible just left of a wide crack just above a horizontal break a little over 100' up.


Protection 

Double cams helpful.5-3



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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Feb 5, 2012

Replaced anchor on this crispy climb-WORST bolted anchor I've seen in Red Rock.

Amazingly bad anchor is now brand new ASCA stainless. The climb is OK but needs a lot more ascents to clean it up.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 6, 2012

Replacing this anchor is indeed a great charitable act. Apparently it had been originally established as the anchor for Sore Sirs before we put up Con Jurors. I remember being terrified rapping from it when we did the FA many years ago.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Feb 6, 2012

This is more appreciation than I've gotten for anything I've replaced outside of Crimson. Thanks, gentlemen. You can write checks to the ASCA and help keep it going, fat stainless ain't cheap but it sure is nice to have.

Yeah the anchor was pretty much a joke, Swain has put in some real garbage, but this anchor is the prize winner. Two bolts sticking out more than 2 inches, the one that was halfway decent a spinner with a (as always, non-climbing strength rated) cold shut hanger.

Once the route cleans up it should get more stars, other than the crispiness and the anchor, it was pretty fun. Cold as hell though-definitely a warm weather crag!