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Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 30'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Tim Kemple?
Page Views: 595
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Mar 11, 2008

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Climb the left side of the wide crack


This problem starts on the left edge of an overhanging chimney. Get established below the overhang, with feet on a boulder and good holds to the right of the edge. Make a lunge to a crimp, heelhook, and make tough slap moves over the bulge, finishing up the easy chimney that splits the slab.
I wondered if the FA had avoided the chimney, but I've convinced myself that it would be highly contrived (and really scary) to force oneself to beeline up the overgrown slab for a direct finish. Who knows?


At the start of the trail leading to the Boulder Natural area, on a big boulder split by a chimney



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By BDalhaus
From: Manchester, NH
Nov 1, 2012

I'd assume it tops out up the slab with the use of the crack rather than crawling into the chimney... it was Kemple after all.
By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Apr 25, 2015
rating: V7 7A+

This climb is actually pretty amazing. People should toss pads down just to try the jump off the boulder to the crimp, so much fun! I can't see this being v5 though. It's not the highball factor either, feels harder than Individual Medley and Universal Socket. Satisfying climb either way.

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