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Linger Longer Rock
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Central Groove T,TR 
Compressor Route S 
Left Crack T 

Compressor Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard M. Wright, 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: any warm day
Page Views: 647
Submitted By: allen simons on Sep 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Kyle leading...Kwiatkowski belaying. Photo was ta...
Private Property - Open, with restrictions MORE INFO >>>

Location 

Just left (6-10 feet) of center groove with the eye bolt. Start under the bolt line and go up. Obvious landmarks are the 15 bolts.


Description 

The crux is at the 2nd or 3rd bolt on green lichen face. Fun route, over bolted (IMO) but well-protected for sure. There are gear placements in spots that may have eliminated the need for 4-5 bolts. The F.A. stated that taking the bolts directly instead of to the side is harder.


Protection 

15 draws-chains at top for rap off.



Photos of Compressor Route Slideshow Add Photo
Leading near the start.
Leading near the start.
Kyle leading upper portion of route.....photos were taken from the front porch of the rock's landowner. <br />Thanks, John!
Kyle leading upper portion of route.....photos wer...
This sort of felt like the crux to us. <br /> <br />John & Jeri, THANK YOU!
This sort of felt like the crux to us.

John & Jer...
Comments on Compressor Route Add Comment
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By allen simons
Sep 11, 2007

NOTE: "Compressor Route" is not the real name of this route. If the route setter would come forth with a name, I will be happy to post the FA's name for the route.

By kyle kingrey
From: Loveland
Sep 11, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Route is a good one. Whoever bolted it did a nice job. However, it could have gone with about 4 or 5 less bolts. (Two bolts are near a very nice crack.) I had a chance to meet with the landowners, they are indeed some very nice people. Thankfully they are not the type of folk to have a knee jerk reaction about the many bolts now placed on their rock. They could have easily put up "no trespassing" signs. More time needs to be spent finding out about access issues before bolting and climbing. I am guilty of climbing this rock about 2 years ago.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 14, 2007

Allen, I put the route up shortly before going in for hip surgery, at the end of July, 2007. It was done solo, ground up, and on the lead, and this has always generated more bolts than I would like myself. I ran it using a rope solo technique at the time. My estimate was that a 60 meter rope may not quite touch ground, I did it with a 70 meter line with no trouble. Pulling some bolts near natural placements is fine with me, in fact I drilled most of the holes long enough that the hangers can be removed, the bolts tapped in, and the hole patched. At the time I was completely unaware of the blue sling at the top of the crag (two bolts) or of the double bolt anchor at 100ft and right of where I started. As for the name: I didn't have one, so if you like The Compressor Route I won't complain.

By allen simons
Sep 14, 2007

Richard, thanks for the reply. After extensive conversations with the land owners, they told me they would leave the fate of the bolts to Kyle and I. Although I can't speak for Kyle, I think he and I are both ok just painting the hangers. When he reads this, he will probably comment. The owners told me that painting them would satisfy them. They like to sit on their front porch and look at the rocks that surround them. The glint of the bolt line was disturbing to them. I found the route very fun by the way. I have top roped the routes many times. For the future, I think the owners would allow more bolts as long as they are apart of the process which means only Aug and Sep every year, or an e-mail to them to discuss it. What did you think the route was rated? I wasn't sure if you should stay right of the bolts or hit them directly on the start. Again, thanks for the reply, if you change your mind about the name let me know. Hope the hip is ok. Allen

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 15, 2007

Hi Allen, painting the hangers is a fine idea. As I indicated before, I really have no trouble pulling a bolt where we can find good gear. If my surgery had not come up so quickly, I was planning on running through it again with this in mind as well as brushing it up a bit. As far as climbing it goes, I was trying to stay on the bolt line and away from the easier climbing out right. However, forcing a line may simply be pointless. I thought the rock straight up was nicer, but people will do what they find most appealing and that will dictate the grade. The ownership issue may be a bit uncertain. The crag itself may well fall within the easement owned by CDOT or the city. Regardless, consideration for the local resident's concerns is a higher priority.