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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Nate Ball on Jun 18, 2014

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This route was apparently a "high-ball boulder problem" back in the day. No telling how you would get off it. The controversy of this route, now long forgotten by most, stems from the fact that it was bolted in a popular area by a non-Taiwanese.

Regardless, the route takes a line up a vertical, pebbly face. The crux is getting off the ground, which isn't terribly difficult for balance-savvy climbers, but does tend to shut down a lot of "LD 10a" climbers. Once on the face, pinch pebbles on your way to the top of this blunt arete. Atop the small rounded ledge, pull up through bands of inclusions to the anchor.

The route is often top-roped via The Nut Pitch start.


First bolted line left of Fucking Fall


316 steel (2011)

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