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Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)
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Completion Backword Principle 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tod Anderson and Richard Wright, 1993
Page Views: 555
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 8, 2001

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Ken Parker nearing the steep red band.
Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This excellent route fires up the middle of the longest section of the yellow, South facing main wall of Ridge 2, just left of a large pine tree. Climbing is on lay-aways, edges, and flakes and seems to get just a bit harder with every move. The technical crux, strictly speaking, comes with a finger traverse to the left, near the middle of the climb, and seemed a bit harder than 5.11a (my own call is more like 5.11b since the edge/seam really peters out at the left end). Another left traverse 20 ft below the anchors adds another 5.10+ crux on sketchy feet and is a bit tricky since it moves quite a way to the left. The rest feels a bit spacey, but climbing is never harder than 5.9. Three stars for the great stone, high continuity, and tricky sequences in the middle.


Protection 

QDs only. This 100 foot route needs a baker's dozen of draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of Completion Backword Principle Slideshow Add Photo
Upper crux.
Upper crux.
Pulling the lower crux.
Pulling the lower crux.
Ken Parker making a hard move to the roof. The move to get to where he is in the photo is also hard. The photo is a little crooked... The rope drag issue is evident in this photo. I placed a gold Camalot way left, not to help with rope drag, but because I thought that's where I needed to climb the roof. Although the cam would help with rope drag, it's hard to get out there and harder to get back.
Ken Parker making a hard move to the roof. The mov...
Comments on Completion Backword Principle Add Comment
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By Chris Cavallaro
Oct 5, 2001

Get ready for rope drag on this one..

By david goldstein
Apr 6, 2004

Richard's route description does not completely jibe with the climb I just did. I found two cruxes, the first a roof about midway and the second a traverse to the left near the top which matches Richard's technical crux. This route has interesting moves and good rock but is docked a star for rope drag and possible ledge fall potential at the second crux. Rope drag can be reduced by using a long sling on the bolt below the roof; if the extra fall potential this adds make you unhappy, you could place a small nut at the lip of the roof.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A good climb with 4 potential cruxes, depending on your style.The first crux was at the first bolt- with odd stemming- the crux hold was slick and tough, for me this was the hardest move. Chalk or less "humid" conditions might have helped. A second crux was just at the roof. A agree that this bolt was somewhat poorly placed relative to fall position and rope drag, and a 2' sling will decrease the potential bother of either somewhat, but... the rope still drags with a long sling. Should the bolt below the roof ever be replaced, perhaps it should be moved left a foot or two.Pulling over that roof is cruxy and gettign established above it might give a climber some trouble. TH eclip there is pumpy.The last crux is lats and shoulders- it need not feel hard for the strong, but it will make a few limp-wristed delicate footwork experts sorry if 11a is their limit... and it will make ogres like me feel better after watching them sail through the first crux that I was whining on.

If you want to lower off of this, particularly with draws still in, I hope you brought your 70M rope. My 70M had only 3 meters left with climber and belayer at the ground. The route is more like 33m and a 60m will come up short, particularly with the wandering line of the climb and it's bolts.On rap you can probably swing uphill to reach a high spot on the ground and make it down with a 60M, but that is untested by myself and would be close.

By Alan Higham
Oct 31, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Great pitch, if the belayer walks up the gully, then a 60m rope gets the climber down, assuming the QD's are stripped.