|Type:||Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA:||Jeff Ash, Adam Read, Matt Samet|
|Submitted By:||George Perkins on Apr 29, 2012|
|Comments on Completely Clueless||Add Comment|
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By Patrick Vernon
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 6, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I doubt this thing gets climbed much. This feels like the hardest line of the three by far. At least Bojin to the left has usable holds through the difficult climbing and feels reasonable for its given grade. There was some suspect glue at one point where it looked like a hold might have been.
Fun 5.11 climbing leads to a stance on a sloping angled foot ledge. From here it is 20 feet of desperate, sequential slab climbing that is probably .12d in reality. It took me multiple tries to work out a sequence that weaved out right then back left. Fortunately I was on top rope (mini traxion) so the 30 foot runnout to the anchors on 5.10/11 terrain wasn't an issue. There is a decent piece available, but it is down and left from the "stance" to place it and you are probably quaking in your boots at this point. Long fingernails and new shoes help on this one.
The second pitch to all these climbs feels about .11a/b heading up on really fun steep climbing with intermittent gear and pins.