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A thin, thought provoking route that's worth doing if you like less than vertical edging. Start up a bottommed-out crack that protects ok with nuts and units, heading for the lure of the bolts. Once there, climb straight up on very thin holds with decent feet (crux), clipping 4 bolts to reach a juggy hueco. There's some good gear above the hueco then some 11- climbing on poor gear (very small wires) that eventually ends in some thank God jugs. Easy climbing above leads to a ledge. I didn't see an anchor but an easy traverse left gained the Cakewalk anchors.
In between Cakewalk and Golden Locks.
4 bolts and a light rack, heavy on small gear.
By Jim Lawyer
Apr 28, 2011
I found many of the holds fragile and so sharp they cut into my finger pads.