|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Robyn Erbesfield, Roy Britton - 1989|
|Submitted By:||yevquest on Mar 28, 2010|
|Comments on Competitive Edge||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jim Lawyer
Apr 28, 2011
|I found many of the holds fragile and so sharp they cut into my finger pads.|
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 20, 2014
For those wanting an on-sight, don't read.
For those wanting some extra beta:
After the second bolt avoid getting sucked up and left by seemingly probable terrain. Follow the boltline.
After the bolted section, theres a small ledge where you can rest. Just up and left of this, get a bomber smaller wire (yellow DMM Offset or equivalent works) in a vertical seam and run it out to the top. Cracks above this placement seem too shallow for even BD C3's, and have no constrictions so nuts/RPs won't work. This is a pretty cool route that seemingly sees very little traffic.
Nov 11, 2014
|Wei Ming I'd agree it's an awesome route but definitely not for those unfamiliar with making poor gear work as well as possible - poor nuts down low with a few solid cams (but of the uber small variety, i.e. black alien, 00-000 C3). I got a great yellow X4 after the last bolt and a mid/small brassy just after that placed and pulled to set facing wide in the shallow flaring crack just before the good crimp, before the final jugs. A little surprised at the lack of anchors but set a #1 C4 and walked over to the golden locks anchors. Wouldn't be too upset if anyone felt like trying to clean out the super dirty bottom finger crack.|