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Comp Rock - East Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Already Been Done Crack T 
Bathing Beauty T 
Castle Rocks Gardening Club T 
Continental Crust S 
East Ridge Variation T 
Handy T,S 
Mantle Dynamics S 
Mein Komp T 

Comp Rock - East Face Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 42.1359, -113.6689 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,242
Administrators: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: grk10vq on Jul 3, 2006
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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

Area Description 

A more moderate section of Comp Rock, this part of the crag has a good handful of hits and misses under 5.11. With a good share of cracks and face climbing, you'll find some really nice, well done classics mixed with a couple of no-star bombs. An exposed area, this crag sees sun almost all day.


Follow the signed/designated trail to Comp Rock from the lower parking lot. Take a marked trail between the lower Comp Wall and Wedding Bell. A scramble to the base of the routes is necessary.

Climbing Season

For the Comp Rock area.

Weather station 13.8 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Comp Rock - East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Comp Rock - East Face:
Handy   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Continental Crust   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 200'   
Mantle Dynamics   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Comp Rock - East Face

Featured Route For Comp Rock - East Face
Rock Climbing Photo: look up at Mein Comp, ends at the horizontal break...

Mein Komp 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c  ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Comp Rock - East Face
Start on easier climbing up to the first bolt. Lay back/stem your way up a blob like feature to a just out of reach finger lock. At the second bolt move back right via a body tension cross through to a sloping dish. Match that, mantle up, clip 3rd bolt and get a ok rest. Here comes the fun stuff. 30ft of stemming and slapping, get gear where you can in the seam. When possible, cut right to the next crack system over and head up over the last crux section. If you have made it this far, you...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Photos of Comp Rock - East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: East side of Competition Rock. The left skyline is...
East side of Competition Rock. The left skyline is...

Comments on Comp Rock - East Face Add Comment
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By Charlie Perry
Oct 11, 2006
I noticed that some of the routes going up are lower grade R and X. My suggestion is to make these routes non R or X for the following reasons.

1. The City of Rocks is known and acclaimed for its bolted safe climbing. There are plenty of other areas in the nation that sport routes that are hairy. Like in my neighborhood, Fort Collins.

2. By putting up R and X routes you are limiting the number of people who would climb these routes. Is it fair for a hard 11 climber to put up a 5.7 R-X? Anybody climbing at that level would possibly pass over a beautiful route due to the danger. Even worse someone might try it, fall and become seriously injured. The cost of such evacuations are exorbitant. Most municipalities are running on a limited budget as it is. If the cost for rescue strains their budget, the simplest and easiest path is to prohibit climbing in these areas. Do you want to take the risk of loosing our climbing privileges in the City as well as Castle Rock?
3. Once a climb is established it is forever! Why would anyone want to limit the access to a climb forever due to a dangerous runout that could possibly be cured with an additonal bolt or two. I see this all the time at Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park. Perfectly good death routes that hardly ever get climbed because some one like suicidal John Yablonski put it up.
p.s. He killed himself.

I just returned from the City for the first time in six years. It is really a great fun climbing area were most of the climbs are pretty safe and protected. A nice reprieve from psychotic runout routes.
By Brian in SLC
Oct 12, 2006
There's always been a mix of styles especially at the City. For instance, Dowdle Face is now Delay of Game (used to have no bolts, or just one old stud, and yet, folks still have been hurt/killed on it). Twist and Crawl, Tribal Boundries, etc, have had bolts added over time. Look at Chocolate Face, Batwings Direct, Suburban Sprawl, Infinite, etc etc. Plenty of R and X rated routes still exist.

These are new routes. Give them time. There's tons of well protected routes. If a few non well protected lines gather dust, no biggie. And, most FA'ers who don't protect their routes adequately, seem to not mind an upgrade later on.

Its all good.

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