Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Santa S 
Community Service S 
Ecstatic Electricity S 
Fish, The S 
Four Play S 
I Been Robbed S 
Last Lonely Eagle S 
Litheon Flux S 
Lugee Head S 
Massive Headwound Harry S 
Send It S 
Short Vacation S 
Stealin S 
Three Sheets To The Wind  S 
Triple Header S 
Triple Play T 
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 
Unknown 5.6 T 
Unnamed Mixed Route T 
Valentine Arete S 
Valentine Corner T 
Welcome to Milagrosa S 
Where the Buffalo Roam S 
Wizard, The S 

Community Service 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Argueso, Scott Ayers
Page Views: 3,090
Submitted By: dcohn on Dec 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
John Bachar sans rope. Photo: Paola Accusani

Description 

Clean rock, moderately pumpy, great warm-up. It was my friend's first .10a lead so it also good for new 10 leaders.


Location 

It is the fourth bolted route on the main wall as you enter the canyon. It is just to left of a large crack and to the right of a corner with some difficult sport climbs.


Protection 

quickdraws



Photos of Community Service Slideshow Add Photo
Before the dirty ledge on Community Service
Before the dirty ledge on Community Service
If you look closely you can see John Bachar's red jacket. edited
If you look closely you can see John Bachar's red ...
logan on community service
logan on community service
Christian doing his share of Community Service.
Christian doing his share of Community Service.
Comments on Community Service Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2013
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Mar 8, 2007

Whats up with the bolted crack? Looks like it would take pro pretty well..

By Jimbo
Mar 9, 2007

The pro is adequate, and it has been led on gear.
Travis have you climbed this route?, because bitching about a "bolted crack" having not climbed it on gear is bogus.
It was decided by the person who drilled most of the routes in La Milagrosa the he was doing a "Community Service" by bolting this route as a warm up. In his defense it is the most climbed route in the canyon, as every one warms up on it.
Also very few people even bring gear to La Milagrosa. There are, however many fine gear routes to do there that aren't bolted, and they all have chains at the top for the easy lower off thanks to area developer.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jul 26, 2007

Was I bitching, Jimbo? I thought I was only asking a question. Which you answered: convenience is what is up with the bolted crack. And my name is Tavis, not Travis.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 26, 2007

Lighten up Jimbo. Tavis (no r in there) was just asking the same question you USED to ask all the time. Oh how the times have changed.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 3, 2008

Ironically, it was Jimbo himself belaying me as I climbed this route yesterday and clipped the bolts. I can see why it gets done a lot more with bolts: the crack is thin, shallow, slippery, and just loose enough that climbing this thing on gear would be quite exciting. I didn't even bother to bring the rack down to Tucson!

Thanks again to Jim and Eric for being great hosts and guides.

I still pity the fool who climbs on Mr T's Chosspile, though. :)

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 3, 2008

Now I really pity the fool that adds an R to Mr. T's name. Good couple of days Mr. T.

By climber
Jan 24, 2010

Regarding the lower half of “Community Service” in Milagrosa Canyon in Tucson:
In 1987, Dave Des Champs led the lower crack to the ledge, then traversed right to fistcrack to top.
This is a perfectly good crack that is easily and safely led by placing 1 or 2 cams. Despite previous ascents, in the early 1990’s Crater Ayers pretended that nobody else had ever climbed the lower crack (although it had dozens of ascents by then). Unable to climb the crack without drilling it down to his level, Ayers vandalized the crack with unneeded bolts. Dave asked him to remove the bolts which Crater Ayers refused to do. Years later Crater Ayers cratered on the route and sustained lower extremity injuries

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 5, 2010

Did a variation Jimbo recommended yesterday. Climb Community Service to the ledge with a long draw at the bolt before the ledge. Traverse left then another long draw so you can finish on the upper part of Ecstatic Electricity. Pretty fun and a letter or two harder.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 5, 2010

Regarding the lower half of “Community Service” in Milagrosa Canyon in Tucson:
In 1987, Dave Des Champs led the lower crack to the ledge, then traversed right to fistcrack to top.
This is a perfectly good crack that is easily and safely led by placing 1 or 2 cams. Despite previous ascents, in the early 1990’s Crater Ayers pretended that nobody else had ever climbed the lower crack (although it had dozens of ascents by then). Unable to climb the crack without drilling it down to his level, Ayers vandalized the crack with unneeded bolts. Dave asked him to remove the bolts which Crater Ayers refused to do. Years later Crater Ayers cratered on the route and sustained lower extremity injuries
Christian
Jan 24, 2010


Another example of Do As I Say and I will do anything I want!

By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 18, 2010

This route is made to order for the 10a leader IMHO, it is aptly named, beautiful canyon, beautiful rock, beautiful line.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 18, 2010

"Eric Rhicard" wrote:
Another example of Do As I Say and I will do anything I want!


hahahaha!!!!!

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

That's bizarre, I deleted whatever You Tube video I had posted with a now non-functioning link. Next thing I know, my name plus the date I had posted that video (in response to "climber", can't remember what it was, but it wasn't in support of what he said) then showed up in the middle of Eric's next post under the quote from "climber".

Lol, I didn't even start climbing or move to Tucson until 2002, not a clue as to what was going on around here in 1987.