Community Service 

Whats up with the bolted crack? Looks like it would take pro pretty well..

The pro is adequate, and it has been led on gear.
Travis have you climbed this route?, because bitching about a "bolted crack" having not climbed it on gear is bogus.
It was decided by the person who drilled most of the routes in La Milagrosa the he was doing a "Community Service" by bolting this route as a warm up. In his defense it is the most climbed route in the canyon, as every one warms up on it.
Also very few people even bring gear to La Milagrosa. There are, however many fine gear routes to do there that aren't bolted, and they all have chains at the top for the easy lower off thanks to area developer.

Was I bitching, Jimbo? I thought I was only asking a question. Which you answered: convenience is what is up with the bolted crack. And my name is Tavis, not Travis.

Lighten up Jimbo. Tavis (no r in there) was just asking the same question you USED to ask all the time. Oh how the times have changed.

Ironically, it was Jimbo himself belaying me as I climbed this route yesterday and clipped the bolts. I can see why it gets done a lot more with bolts: the crack is thin, shallow, slippery, and just loose enough that climbing this thing on gear would be quite exciting. I didn't even bother to bring the rack down to Tucson!

Thanks again to Jim and Eric for being great hosts and guides.

I still pity the fool who climbs on Mr T's Chosspile, though. :)

Now I really pity the fool that adds an R to Mr. T's name. Good couple of days Mr. T.

Regarding the lower half of “Community Service” in Milagrosa Canyon in Tucson:
In 1987, Dave Des Champs led the lower crack to the ledge, then traversed right to fistcrack to top.
This is a perfectly good crack that is easily and safely led by placing 1 or 2 cams. Despite previous ascents, in the early 1990’s Crater Ayers pretended that nobody else had ever climbed the lower crack (although it had dozens of ascents by then). Unable to climb the crack without drilling it down to his level, Ayers vandalized the crack with unneeded bolts. Dave asked him to remove the bolts which Crater Ayers refused to do. Years later Crater Ayers cratered on the route and sustained lower extremity injuries

Did a variation Jimbo recommended yesterday. Climb Community Service to the ledge with a long draw at the bolt before the ledge. Traverse left then another long draw so you can finish on the upper part of Ecstatic Electricity. Pretty fun and a letter or two harder.

Regarding the lower half of “Community Service” in Milagrosa Canyon in Tucson:
In 1987, Dave Des Champs led the lower crack to the ledge, then traversed right to fistcrack to top.
This is a perfectly good crack that is easily and safely led by placing 1 or 2 cams. Despite previous ascents, in the early 1990’s Crater Ayers pretended that nobody else had ever climbed the lower crack (although it had dozens of ascents by then). Unable to climb the crack without drilling it down to his level, Ayers vandalized the crack with unneeded bolts. Dave asked him to remove the bolts which Crater Ayers refused to do. Years later Crater Ayers cratered on the route and sustained lower extremity injuries
Christian
Jan 24, 2010


Another example of Do As I Say and I will do anything I want!

This route is made to order for the 10a leader IMHO, it is aptly named, beautiful canyon, beautiful rock, beautiful line.