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The Wasteland
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Automatic Leg Spreader 
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Community Service 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kurt Smith, 1992
Page Views: 987
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 7, 2001
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Description 

On the left side of the Wasteland. CS is the right of two lines firing up the near vertical face on pale to tan colored stone. Continuous movement on edges and side pulls with narry a pocket in sight in the land of pockets. This excellent "warm up" has always felt closer to 5.11d to than 11c, and it was originally rated 5.12a. Certainly no single sequence adds up to 12a, so pick your preference somewhere in that range.

This wall can pick up some stunning heat in the warmer months, and can be deadly in the middle of the day. On one such tour of CS the heat got to be so much that I nearly blacked out at 60 ft and took a good solid 25 footer onto an unsuspecting belayer. CS has also been the scene of some truly senseless climbing antics, perhaps because it is reasonably moderate. History aside, CS is fine line with high continuity, crisp edges, and solid rock. Just stay out of the sun.


Protection 

Bring about a dozen draws and a 60 meter rope.



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By 426
Mar 21, 2007

I really liked this route, maybe because I'm more of a "granite" clinger...