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Memorial Wall
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Community Chest 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: Toshi Takeuchi on Apr 6, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Max TR'ing Community Chest at Auburn. Thanks ASCA...
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Description 

Leftmost route on memorial wall. Awkward (for 5.6) moves on crumbly rock. Taking the risk of lost holds due to crumbling and not so great fall line into account, a solid 5.8 climber is recommended to lead this route.


Protection 

6 bolts to anchors.



Photos of Community Chest Slideshow Add Photo
1st route on the left, also the farthest bolted line left on the wall <br /> <br />topo w/new bolts
BETA PHOTO: 1st route on the left, also the farthest bolted li...
Comments on Community Chest Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 30, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I agree that you should be a 5.8 or so lead climber to climb this route. The current crux is going to fall, and soon. I don't want to be the person climbingit when it goes... Other than that, this is decent for a 5.6, and still makes agreat warmup.

Cleaning up

By Rough
Oct 21, 2012

This route is now rebolted and ready for business as of yesterday. Thanks to my wife Brenda for belaying me on lead to re-establish the route and the ASCA for providing the bolts to replace the ones that were chopped!

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 14, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Safely and thoroughly bolted six times, walked our friend through her first sport lead on this. New Mussy hook anchor at the top.

By Leo Ramirez
Jan 23, 2013

I saw a couple of large rocks fall from a group climbing this route on 1/18/13. This was my last and least favorite route at the quarry. It seemed harder than 5.6. Be careful with this one since the rock seemed kind of unstable.

By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Apr 20, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Felt more like 5.8, at least if you avoid using the several loose jugs, which I think is probably recommended. Still very well bolted and safe despite the choss. Make sure your belayer stands well to the right while belaying. Still a nice re-addition to The Quarry, thanks for you efforts Rough.